Tasting Notes

Fine Wine Review
on 2002 German Vintage
by Claude Kolm
#97 , Nov. 2003 / #99, Feb. 2004

The Fine Wine Review uses a 0 - 100 point scale broadly classifying along a continuum, with scores in the upper 90s for truly exceptional wines, wines scoring below 80 as poor and wines below 75 being unacceptable. As a second set of notations, A through F, the wines are examined for typicality of the wine and the expectations for that class or appellation of wine, A being outstanding, and F describing an unacceptable wine. More about the FWR...

THE GREAT 2002 VINTAGE IN GERMANY
PART I: MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER AND NAHE
Even in the Mosel, the Star Region in 2001, Some Producers Do Better in 2002,
But Very Late-Harvested Wines, the Strength of 2001, Are Limited in 2002

Quick access:
| von Buhl | Gunderloch | Fürst | Fritz Haag | Reinhold Haart | von Hövel | Heger | Karthäuserhof |
| Künstler | Schloss Lieser | Milz-Laurentiushof | Mönchhof / Eymael | Pfeffingen | JJ Prüm | Rebholz |
| Schäfer-Fröhlich | Bert Simon |Wegeler Mosel | Wegeler Rheingau | Weins-Prüm | Robert Weil |
| Wirsching | Zilliken |

FWR 97: I've noticed an interesting phenomenon over the last few decades: a very good vintage comes along and gets over-hyped. It then turns out that the following vintage is even better, but initially, many with reputations on the line for pumping the earlier vintage were unable to admit the superior quality of the later vintage until some time has passed. This was the case with Médocs in 1985/86, 1989/90, and 1995/96, and with red Burgundies in 1989/90, for example. (For the record, my initial evaluations of 1985 and 1989 Médocs and 1989 red Burgundies was that they were good to very good vintages, but not exceptional; I did not taste the 1995 Médocs until spring 1997, when I was tasting the 1996 Médocs at the same time.) It appears that the 2001/2002 vintages in Germany may present yet another such pair.

Why this phenomenon? Actually, it's easy to explain. In many cases, people have their minds made up about a vintage and their reputations on the line, and they're not about to admit that they have bought and/or sold wines that are not as good or appreciably better than those of the new vintage.

In the case of 2001, by all judgments, the German region where the vintage was strongest was the Mosel Valley, which leads us to some interesting comparisons. For Eymael/Mönchhof, J. J. Christoffel, Selbach-Oster, von Kesselstatt, and Schloss Lieser, among other examples, 2001 appears to have been the better vintage. On the other hand, for Fritz Haag and probably J. J. Prüm and Willi Schaefer, 2002 apparently was the better vintage based on what I've tasted - if one is not too influenced by the fact that there is virtually no Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese in 2002. For still other estates, the question is close, and one must go wine by wine. 2001 may be the longer-lived vintage, although there certainly is no reason to expect that 2002 will fade quickly. What is true is that the 2002 vintage cannot compete with 2001 for the prestige late harvest wines - Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese, and to some extent Long Gold Capsule Auslese. On the other hand, 2002 is a superb, if somewhat variable vintage, for Eiswein.

In the Saar, the question is still close, but I am inclined to go with 2002, again understanding and forgiving that there is a lack of BA and TBA in that vintage. In the Ruwer, forget BA and TBA, but otherwise, 2002 is a very great vintage, rivaling 1997, and the von Schuberts and Karthäuserhofs, in their respective styles, are absolute must-haves for anyone who has ever admired a wine from these two very great estates.

In the Nahe, from what I have tasted, the question is similarly close. I am inclined to view the aging capacity of 2002 as medium-term, and 2001 in general may last somewhat longer. Generally, the QbA wines (no designation of Riesling Kabinett, Spätlese, Riesling Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, or Eiswein) can be consumed young, but will hold surprisingly well; 8-10 years at least for this vintage, I should think; Riesling Kabinetts from top producers and vineyards can hold 15-20 years, Spätlesen 20-30 years, and sweeter wines will outlast your winedrinking years.

Another question is whether the wines will close up and go through a dumb period. This is not easy to answer. Carl von Schubert, of the great Maximin Grünhäuser estate has an interesting theory that makes sense: in years where the summer was warm and thus the malic acidities are relatively low, the wines do not close up. In other years, they will close up for a period of time. For the most part, 2002 is a year where the malic acidities seem relatively gentle, and one can hope that these wines will always remain open.

Weather conditions. This was a very hot year, the third hottest recorded at Geisenheim since recordkeeping began in 1884, and overall 3º F above the long term average. As a result of a warm March, budbreak in the Mosel was April 16, 15 days ahead of 2001 and 16 days ahead of the long term average. Flowering is listed as June 15, a week ahead of 2001 and ten days ahead of the long term average. The hot summer led to an early start of the ripening, although not as early as 2001: August 26 in 2002 vs. August 23 for the previous year, but that compares with a long term average of September 7. On the whole, conditions in August and September seemed even more favorable than in 2001, and already by the second week of October, there were Mosel estates harvesting Gold Capsule Auslese. However, intermittent rains in the last part of October slowed things down a little and put an end to hopes for Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese. But the steep slopes of the vineyards meant that the water did not penetrate the soils to dilute the grapes, although they did delay the harvest somewhat. A significant amount of grapes were left for Eiswein, and they were amply rewarded by freezes in late November and early December (1500 liters of Eiswein at Karthäuserhof!). The downside of the Eisweine is that some contain botrytis, which has been an increasing trend in recent years. Where the botrytis is present in Eisweine, it generally, but not always, is much better mastered than in prior vintages, but for those wines, I would be inclined to drink them early.

Overall in Germany, yields are 7% above the long term average and 19% above the 2001 crop. The Mosel-Saar-Ruwer is about 25% above 2001, and the Nahe is about 3% above 2001 in quantity. Acidities are often above 2001, but the percentage of malic acidity, which determines the hardness of the wines, varied from property to property, according to my conversations with producers. On the whole, though, I find a better sugar/acid balance in 2002 than in 2001.

Speaking of sweetness, if you have not been trying the dry (trocken) and medium-dry (halbtrocken, usually wines that do not taste sweet but are rounder than the trocken wines), give them a try. The wines are much easier to take than in the early-1990s and from the best producers provide nervosity and purity.

Reference Sources. The must-have book in the English language, even though it is out of print and badly in need of a revision, is Stuart Pigott's The Wine Atlas of Germany (Mitchell Beazley, 1995). The maps are the best I know of, and there is excellent commentary describing all the major terroirs in Germany. Used copies are frequently available through amazon.com. Should you not be able to obtain that book definitely go for Hugh Johnson's and Jancis Robinson's World Atlas of Wine (5th Edition) (Mitchell Beazley, 2001). The book contains most of the same maps as the Pigott book, and the text, while greatly reduced from that of Pigott's, is most useful. Stephen Brooke, an excellent British writer, has just published The Wines of Germany (Faber and Faber, 2003). I have had only the most cursory examination of it, but it appears to be a distant third choice behind the two others mentioned above.

FWR 99: My first impression on tasting wines from the 2002 vintage was that it was superior to the 2001 vintage. Now, having tasted a great deal more, I have to say that it is up in the air between the two, with the exception that there are more late harvest wines in the earlier year. Without a doubt, there are fabulous wines in 2002, but as with every vintage (2001 included), you have to be selective, sometimes even within the range offered by a particular producer.
There's really overall little to add to what I've already written about the vintage. Yields overall were about 12% higher than for 2001, overall the vintage is slightly riper than 2001 but rain beginning in October interfered with late harvest wines. There's plenty of outstanding Eiswein, though, and much of it with some botrytis which I usually don't like but that was handled very well by top producers in 2002. Greater malic acidity than in 2001 often makes the 2002s more structured, which some (such as I) appreciate, and others don't. Aging prospects look very good. As with 2001 (and other recent vintages), much QbA is Spätlese, even Auslese, ripeness and this is an area to look at for excellent quality at a modest price.
What Vintages to Drink Now? 2001s are still in their flush of youth and provide lots of pleasure. The best 2000s can pro-vide amazing experiences that defy the tremendously difficult conditions of the vintage. Undoubtedly, there will be the stray wine here and there that will age well, but why take a chance? Drink them up and enjoy them now, for the majority will not be long termers. I've had some 1999 QbAs and Kabinetts re-cently that have begun to show the great potential of this vin-tage, but for the most part, certainly Spätlese and above, I would hold these for years down the road. Similarly, I've had some very attractive 1998s recently, but I think it best to let this vintage sleep for a few more years. On the other hand, 1997 has turned out to be the ugly duckling of the 1990s, a vintage sup-plying much better wines than almost anyone thought at the beginning. If you own any, pop a few corks and delight your-self! I continue to believe that 1996 is a very great vintage, but other than the occasional QbA, I advise not drinking these acid monsters, the same advice I give for their Burgundian counter-parts. 1995s have been drinking well for some time, 1994s one can drink but I think there is still improvement for those willing to age the wines further. 1993s are good for drinking but should continue to hold. 1992s and 1991s are wonderful for drinking now and not likely to get better except for the top Rhine wines from 1992. 1990 is a very great vintage that one can drink but that will provide even further rewards for patience.
All wines below are Riesling, unless otherwise stated. Paren-theses around words in the titles indicate that they are found only on the back label.

Mönchhof Mosel region

Mönchhof 2002 Estate Riesling - The wine, from Ürziger Würzgarten fruit, is stony, sweet, and spiced with a juicy texture and pear flavors.
Score: 87/A- FWR 97

Mönchhof 2002 ASTOR Riesling Kabinett - The Astor Riesling Kabinett likewise is from Ürziger Würzgarten fruit. It is stony, spicy sweet, and juicy with pear flavors, ideal for drinking over the next several years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 02 03.
Score: 89/A- FWR 97

Mönchhof 2002 Riesling Spätlese ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN - Rose and spice aromas, with a racy, medium-sweet mouth, and fine supporting acidity and good length. It should age well. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 04 03.
Score: 90+/ B+ FWR 97

Mönchhof 2002 Riesling Spätlese ERDENER TREPPCHEN - Weighty and powerful, but driven by a strong acidity. There are tinges of brown sugar in the nose and mouth, suggesting a little botrytis, and plenty of depth. Give this wine 6-7 years in the cellar before you start to drink, if you can resist it - which I find hard to do. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 005 03.
Score: 92/A FWR 97

Mönchhof 2002 Riesling Auslese ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN - The Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese has a cinnamon/clove nose with apple/pear and cinnamon flavors, excellent acidity, and great raciness. I imagine that in 7-9 years, this should be a splendid bottle. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 008 03.
Score: 92+/ B+ FWR 97

Mönchhof 2002 Riesling Auslese ERDENER TREPPCHEN - Plenty of acidity, a medium/medium-light round body with hints of botrytis and plenty of raciness. Expect to hold this wine 8-10 years before it is fully ready to drink. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 009 03.
Score: 93/A- FWR 97

Mönchhof 2002 Riesling Auslese ERDENER PRÄLAT - An outstanding success with stones and quince in the nose, and a ripe body with cinnamon-tinged fruit, and a lovely sugar-acid balance. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 10-03. $49.00
Score: 94/A FWR 97

Mönchhof 2002 Riesling Gold Kapsule Auslese ERDENER PRÄLAT - Rich, dense, deep, and full with botrytis, pear and apple flavors, and pinpoint acidity. This is a wine to hold 8-12 years before drinking, but it is superb. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 016 03.
Score: 95/A FWR 97

Mönchhof 2002 Riesling Eiswein ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN - Sweet with pure lime fruit and some honey (but not from botrytis, I think), and great length - a beautiful Eiswein. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 17 03. $110/375ml.
Score: 96(+)/A FWR 97

Reinhold Haart Mosel region

Reinhold Haart 2002 HAART TO HEART - Haart to Heart is the corny new name of Haart's estate Riesling. For the moment, the wine is closed, lean, and relatively dry but the density and incipient apricot fruit are there, and the question is just how good this wine will be in 6-12 months' time. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 3 03.
Score: 85(+)/B- FWR 97

Reinhold Haart 2002 Riesling Kabinett PIESPORTER GOLDTRÖPFCHEN - Haart really begins to excel with the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett, a wine that has the typical Goldtröpfchen ripe peach aromas and flavors, full, pow-erful body, and some sweetness, making it a borderline Riesling Spätlese in style. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 5 03. $22
Score: 93/ A+ FWR 97

Reinhold Haart 2002 Riesling SpätleseDRHON HOFBERGER Drhon is a village a little upriver from Piesport and the Hofberger is a southwest-facing slope. The Riesling Spätlese shows the spiced peach aromas and flavors similar to what one finds in Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, but with less depth and intensity and more finesse, making for a fascinat-ing variation. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 6 03.
Score: 92/A FWR 97

Reinhold Haart 2002 Riesling Spätlese PIESPORTER GOLDTRÖPFCHEN (AP#8)
Score: 95/ A+ FWR 97

Reinhold Haart 2002 Riesling SpätlesePIESPORTER GOLDTRÖPFCHEN (AP#9)
To my taste, Haart makes the greatest and most complete wines in the appellation, and one certainly sees it with the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese, a wine of great intensity and concentration and plenty of leesiness, but huge promise for the future with its peach and apricot fruit. The two lots that I tasted were similar and both great. Last digits of A.P. Nrs.: 8 & 9 03.
Score: 94+/A FWR 97

Reinhold Haart 2002 Riesling Auslese PIESPORTER GOLDTRÖPFCHEN $42
Haart's Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Auslese is a classic, packed with rich Goldtröpfchen apricot and peach fruit and lovely purity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 03.
Score: 94/A FWR 97/99

Reinhold Haart 2002 Riesling Auslese WINTRICHER OHLIGSBERG $42
The Wintricher Ohligsberg Auslese is lighter and airier than the Goldtröpfchen with pure apricot fruit and perhaps a touch of superiority in balance. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 03.
Score: 94+/A FWR 97/99

Fritz Haag Mosel region
2002 is a great year at this, one of Germany's greatest estates.
I clearly prefer these wines to Haag's 2001s.

Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling - Is virtually a medium-dry wine. Bright, crystalline, and stony, this wine will improve in the bottle over several years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1 03.
Score: 90/A FWR 97

Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling Kabinett BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER - Has stony pear and plum aromas, and dark plum, peach, and cassis flavors with depth, power, and balance. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 3 02. $23.00
Score: 93/A+ FWR 97

Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling Kabinett BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER-SONNENUHR - The Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett is pure, deep, round, powerful, and elegant with classic Juffer-Sonnenuhr peach fruit. A classic. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 5 03. $25.00
Score: 94/ A+ FWR 97

Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling Spätlese BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER-SONNENUHR - Is a fabulous bottle with minerals, purity, and a beefy texture, everything a J-S should be. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 7 03. $35.00
Score: 95+/ A+ FWR 97

Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling Auslese BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER-SONNENUHR (AP# 06 03)
Is tightly wound and deep, but oh, so closed for the moment. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 6 03. $47.00
Score: 93 +/A- FWR 97

Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling Gold Kapsule Auslese BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER-SONNENUHR (#12) - Is phenomenal for its depth, concentration, and purity of slaty lime fruit, hints of botrytis and spice, and great length and purity. Fabulous penetration, or as Stuart Pigott would say, electricity to this wine. This is a wine with 40-50 years of great evolution ahead of it. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 03.
Score: 98/A+ FWR 97

Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling Gold Kapsule Auslese BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER-SONNENUHR (#13) - Has more flesh as though it were from older vines but not quite the electricity and penetration and austerity of the previous wine. But we are splitting hairs here. Both are fantastic wines. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 13 03.
Score: 96(+)/A FWR 97

Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling Long Gold Kapsule Auslese BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER-SONNENUHR (#15) - Is mind-boggling for its finesse, depth, and restrained, yet very deep, botrytis. Citric, elegant, every-thing that a Mosel wine should be. I've had many great wines from this, one of Germany's very greatest producers, but I'm not sure I've ever had a wine of this stunning quality before. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 15 03
Score: 99/ A+FWR 97

von Hövel Saar valley
von Hövel 2002 BALDUIN VON HÖVEL Riesling - Is almost always an excellent value, and this year is no exception. The wine has pear aromas, followed by a round mouth with good acidity to support the raspberry flavors, and pineapple on the finish. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 2-03. $13.00
Score: 89/A FWR 97

von Hövel 2002 Riesling Kabinett SCHARZHOFBERG - Is firm and stony, with crystalline apple fruit, but I am not finding as much depth as in still better wines. Frankly, von Hövel does not have the best portion of this famous vineyard, and his Hütte vines have much more potential. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 3-03.
Score: 89(+)/A- FWR 97

von Hövel 2002 Riesling Kabinett OBEREMEMMELER HÜTTE - From an outstanding Saar vineyard that von Hövel is the sole owner of, shows cassis and pear aromas, and cassis flavors with a stony, chalky texture. A clas-sic. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 5-03. $19.00
Score: 91/A FWR 97

von Hövel 2002 Riesling Spätlese SCHARZHOFBERGER - Despite the more famous vineyard name, Scharzhofberger is usually nowhere near as good here as the Oberemmeler Hütte, but this Riesling Spätlese is an exception, almost equivalent in quality. The wine features pear, peach, and lemon aromas and flavors that are pure and a body that is ripe and nervy. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 4-03. $23.00
Score: 92/A FWR 97

von Hövel 2002 Riesling Spätlese OBEREMMELER HÜTTE - Is more closed and tight, much more a wine for the long term, but with outstanding potential. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 6-03.$23.00
Score: 92+/A FWR 97

von Hövel 2002 Riesling Auslese OBEREMMELER HÜTTE - Is an excellent example of the quality of this too-little-known vineyard. The wine features mineral, citric aromas and flavors, with wonderful underlying acidity. As a result of the acidity, the wine is not particularly sweet for an Riesling Auslese, but the balance is there. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 9-03. $32.00
Score: 95/A FWR 97

von Hövel 2002 Riesling Long Gold Kapsule Auslese OBEREMMELER HÜTTE - As one would expect, shot with botrytis. Indeed, it appears to be on the border of BA and LGKA in style and leaning toward the former. Plenty of brown sugar and orange rind here, with excellent supporting acidity, and all this wines asks is 15-20 years' patience to let all the elements blend. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11-03.
Score: 95/A FWR 97

von Hövel 2002 Riesling Eiswein OBEREMMELER HÜTTE - Appears to have impure botrytis in it, and as a result closely resembles the GKA, but without the purity or integration. I'd drink this wine young. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12-03.
Score: 88?/F FWR 97

Karthäuserhof Ruwer valley

Karthäuserhof 2002 PINOT BLANC DRY - The Pinot Blanc shows lively acidity, roundness, good struc-ture, floral fruit, no heaviness, and overall balance. $20.00
Score: 88/A FWR 97

Karthäuserhof 2002 Riesling Spätlese dry EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG - First, the technical aspect about the Riesling Spätlese trocken: you need to check the back label to determine whether you have the Riesling Spätlese trocken or the fruity Riesling Spätlese because both bear the same front label. Now, as for the wine, what an experience!! This is rock/star wine; that is, it smells and tastes of rocks with a great acidic attack that is so dazzling I see stars. With time, the stoniness will open to fruit, but either way, young or old, this is simply a fabulous wine and not to be missed if you have the opportunity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 08 03.
Score: 94/A FWR 97

Karthäuserhof 2002 Riesling Kabinett medium-dry EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG - As with the previous wine, the Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken does not indicate the dryness on the front label; you need to check the back label to determine whether the bot-tle you have is halbtrocken or regular Riesling Kabinett. Because of the acidity, this wine tastes dry, but rounder than a trocken. It is stony in the nose and mouth and promises to produce apricot or peach fruit if you cellar it for 4-5 years, but is lovely to drink now, too. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 06 03.
Score: 89/A- FWR 97

Karthäuserhof 2002 Riesling EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG - If you want an excellent example of a great QbA, try this Karthäuserhof. Minerals, stones, and brilliant, crystalline clarity in the nose and on the palate with a lovely acid attack that plays against the slight sweetness and incipient peach and rose suggestions. Although not so labeled, this wine in fact is a halbtrocken. The wine is gorgeous now, and with proper cellaring should have no trouble going 15-20 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 03-03.
Score: 91/A+ FWR 97

Karthäuserhof 2002 Riesling Kabinett EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG - Is ripe and shows incipient peach aromas and flavors with some roundness to the body and good acidity. I'd opt to wait 3-5 years before drinking this wine, though, to let it develop. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 07 03.
Score: 91/A FWR 97

Karthäuserhof 2002 Riesling Spätlese EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG - Has hazelnut aromas, fol-lowed by a firm, dense, rich mouth without much sweetness showing for the moment due to the high acidity. There are stone, hazelnut, and incipient apricot flavors and with time, the apricot will dominate and make this an even greater wine. I'd opt to hold this wine 6-8 years before beginning to drink it. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 09 03.
Score: 93(+)/A FWR 97

Karthäuserhof 2002 Riesling Auslese EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG - Because of its cutting acidity, the Riesling Auslese is not sweet, but it is racy, deep, and stony with some nut-shell aromas and flavors and plenty of wet stones. If you drink it now, it is wine for meals or an aperitif, not for dessert, but there is a long development to come. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12-03.
Score: 95/A FWR 97

Karthäuserhof 2002 Riesling Auslese #50 EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG - Shows strong botrytis in the nose, fol-lowed by ripe peach and brown sugar flavors with great acidity and outstanding length. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 13 03.
Score: 94/A FWR 97

Karthäuserhof 2002 Riesling Auslese #33 EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG - Shows botrytis with sweetness and great acidity. It is a wine to wait 10-15 years for. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 14-03. $63.00
Score: 95+/A FWR 97

Karthäuserhof 2002 Riesling Gold Kapsule Auslese #52 EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG - Is quite heavily botrytised and shows great acidity. It is not easy to judge at this point, and I'd expect to lay this wine down 15-20 years before opening it. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:16-03.
Score: 95(+)/A FWR 97

Karthäuserhof 2002 Long Gold Kapsule Auslese #54 EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG - Is simply a phenomenal wine with tremendous acidity backing botrytised, ginger-spiced fruit and great length, balance, and harmony. A ballerina of a wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:17-03.
Score: 98/ A+ FWR 97

Karthäuserhof 2002 Riesling Eiswein #48 EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG - Is incredible for its purity and cutting flavors. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 18-03.
Score: 97/A FWR 97

Karthäuserhof 2002 Riesling Eiswein #55 EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG - Is just that much more intense and deep. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 19-03.
Score: 98+/A FWR 97

Schloss Lieser Mosel valley

Thomas Haag, who one day will take over from his father at the great Fritz Haag estate in the meantime continues to make excellent wine at this estate.

Schloss Lieser 2002 Riesling - The wine is crystalline and stony with bing cherry fruit and fine acidity. For sipping or with simple foods. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 2 03. $13.00
Score: 87/A- FWR 97

Schloss Lieser 2002 Riesling Kabinett - Shows stony peach and peach liqueur aromas and flavors with outstanding density and fine length. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 3 03. $18.00
Score: 91/A FWR 97

Schloss Lieser 2002 Riesling Spätlese LIESER NIEDERBERG HELDEN - Has earthy peach and petrol aromas. In the mouth, the wine is ripe and chewy with a smooth texture and plenty of power. This is a change in style from previous vintages which had been more elegant. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 5 03. $25.00
Score: 92/A FWR 97

Schloss Lieser 2002 Riesling Auslese LIESER NIEDERBERG HELDEN ** - Is a beautiful expression of the terroir here. The wine corresponds to a GKA, but being from this location, is light, airy, and dancing, with lemon chiffon aromas and flavors. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:8 03.
Score: 95(+)/A FWR 97

Schloss Lieser 2002 Riesling Auslese LIESER NIEDERBERG HELDEN *** - Is quite similar in profile, but deeper, more intense, and with somewhat more botrytis that gives additional lime and peach dimensinos, and fabulous acidity to balance the sweet-ness. This wine coresponds to LGKA. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:12 03.
Score: 97/ A+ FWR 97

Milz-LaurentiushofMosel valley

Milz 2002 Riesling Kabinett NEUMAGENER NUSSWINGERT - Features an attractive nose of lemon peel, pear, and stony, dusty aromas. In the mouth, the wine is ripe and round with pear, yellow plum, and lime peel flavors, subdued acidity, and richness for a Riesling Kabinett. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 02 03. $20.00
Score: 89/A- FWR 97

Milz 2002 Riesling Spätlese TRITTENHEIMER APOTHEKE - Shows ripe pear and orange peel aromas and flavors, medium-weight on the palate, and a lush texture. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 05 03. $25.00
Score: 92/A FWR 97

Milz 2002 Riesling Spätlese TRITTENHEIMER LEITERCHEN - Has stony, mineral, citric aromas and flavors with a ripe, round body and fine length. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 04 03.$27.00
Score: 92+/A FWR 97

Milz 2002 Riesling Spätlese TRITTENHEIMER FELSENKOPF - Features pear, vanilla, and quince aromas with slate/lime overtones. In the mouth, the wine has vanilla and quince flavors with a bit more nervosity than the previous wines and a citric finish. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 03 03. $27.00
Score: 92+/A FWR 97

Milz 2002 Riesling Auslese TRITTENHEIMER LEITERCHEN - Has pear and vanilla aromas, a medium-light body, and typical red fruits in the mouth, with an overall light and airy impression. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 08 03. $35.00
Score: 93/A- FWR 97

Milz 2002 Riesling Auslese TRITTENHEIMER FELSENKOPF - Sweet with minerality, but less complex than the Leiterchen. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 06 03. $35.00
Score: 91/B FWR 97

Milz 2002 Riesling Gold Kapsule Auslese TRITTENHEIMER FELSENKOPF $30/500ML
Plenty of botrytis in the wine, but also fine clarity, airiness, and depth, making for an outstanding whole. Keep this 10-12 years, minimum. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 7 03.
Score: 94+/A FWR 99

Milz 2002 Riesling Eiswein TRITTENHEIMER APOTHEKE - Typical Eiswein with high acidity and plenty of sweetness, but without the extreme purity that I have found in some other vintages. Still, it is a most pleasurable wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 09 03.
Score: 94/ B+ FWR 97

Wegeler (Mosel)
With Norbert Breit making the wines and Oliver Haag, son of the great Wilhelm Haag of Weingut Fritz Haag, managing the vineyards, and with great parcels to begin with, how could you go wrong? Answer: you can't.

Wegeler 2002 MOSEL RIESLING - It's labeled QbA Riesling, but the wine can pass for a fine Mosel Riesling Spätlese, showing orange peel aro-mas and flavors and fine acidity to put everything in crystalline balance. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 15 03. $15.00
Score: 90/A FWR 97

Wegeler 2002 Riesling Kabinett WEHLENER SONNENUHR - The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett has classic Sonnenuhr vanilla and peach aromas and flavors with good acidity, but lacks by a little the depth of the greatest Sonnenuhrs. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 06 03.$20.00
Score: 90/A FWR 97

Wegeler 2002 Riesling Kabinett BERNKASTELER DOCTOR - The Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett has hazelnut and pepper aromas, mineral lime blossom and peel flavors, elegance with subtlety and complexity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 03. $36.00
Score: 92/A FWR 97

Wegeler 2002 MOSEL Riesling Spätlese - The Riesling Spätlese is citric in the nose and shows a juicy body with lemon-lime flavors supported by fine acidity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 14 03. $23.00
Score: 91+/A- FWR 97

Wegeler 2002 Riesling Spätlese WEHLENER SONNENUHR - Wegeler's Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is pure delight with pow-erful lime aromas and flavors, richness and power in the body great balance. This may not stem from the greatest plot in Sonnenuhr, but everything has been done to maximize the po-tential of the wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 07 03.
Score: 93(+)/A FWR 97

Wegeler 2002 Riesling Spätlese BERNKASTELER DOCTOR - The Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese rises to special heights. Keep in mind that the winemaker here, Norbert Breit, for a long time was the winemaker at Wwe. Dr. Thanisch (Thanisch Erben), the most famous Doctor owner, so he knows the vineyard well. The wine is very pure with apricot and peach aromas and flavors and the requisite density to hold it together majestically. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 03. $28.00
Score: 95/ A+ FWR 97

Wegeler 2002 Riesling Auslese WEHLENER SONNENUHR - The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese is rich and ripe apple fruit with some honey seemingly coming from of botrytis. A wine that lives up to the reputation of the vineyard. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 09 03.
Score: 93/A- FWR 97

Wegeler 2002 Riesling Auslese BERNKASTELER DOCTOR - Wegeler's Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese is a prime example of why this really is one of the great Mosel vineyards, (even if many of the wines from the vineyard are disappointing). This is dense, deep, rich, nervy wine with pure apricot pit fruit. Wow! Wait 8-10 years and this may be a legend. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 10 03. Score: 95+/A FWR 97

Wegeler 2002 Riesing Gold Kapsule Auslese BERNKASTELER DOCTOR - Certainly, there is more botrytis to the Bernkasteler Doctor GKA, but is botrytis always better? To this taster, no. Rich, brown sugar and lemon notes mark this wine, which certainly appears to have a lifespan longer than any contemporary reader. Bordering on BA in style. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 17 03.
Score: 95/A FWR 97

Wegeler 2002 Riesling Eiswein BERNKASTELER DOCTOR - The Bernkasteler Doctor Eiswein is a fitting cap to these great wines with purity and clarity to the ripe, rich honeyed fruit. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 18 03.
Score: 97/A FWR 97

Dr. F. Weins-Prüm Mosel valley

Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2002 RIESLING medium-dry (halbtrocken) - Bert Selbach's Riesling halbtrocken shows white pepper aromas, a juicy texture, and pear flavors. It is good either for sip-ping or with simple dishes. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 09 03.$13.00
Score: 86/ B+ FWR 97

Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2002 Riesling Kabinett GRAACHER DOMPROBST - The Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett is perhaps more reserved than usual, but the wine is packed with depth and concentration with ripe quince and fig fruit and fine supporting acidity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 5 03. Score: 92(+)/A FWR 97

Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2002 Riesling Kabinett WEHLENER SONNENUHR - The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett is a classic for that vineyard, stony and pure with vanilla and white peach fruit. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1 03. $19.00
Score: 92/A FWR 97

Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2002 Riesling Spätlese GRAACHER DOMPROBST - From the great Graacher Domprobst vineyard, the Riesling Spätlese has vanilla and peach flavors and aromas, but is still quite undeveloped and needs more time to age. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 6 03. $25.00
Score: 93(+)/A FWR 97

Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2002 Riesling Spätlese WEHLENER SONNENUHR - The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is ripe and sweet with classic peach and vanilla aromas and flavors. As always, one of the best Sonnenuhrs. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 2 03. $26.00
Score: 93(+)/A FWR 97

Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2002 Riesling Spätlese ERDENER PRÄLAT - The Erdener Prälat Riesling Spätlese is rich, deep, and intense with plenty of acidity to drive the wine. It's still just a baby, though, and I'd give it 7-8 years in the cellar before opening. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 3-03.
Score: 93/A FWR 97

Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2002 Riesling Eiswein GRAACHER HIMMELREICH - The Graacher Himmelreich Eiswein has a relaxed intensity to it with creamy lemon curd flavors. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 13 03. $63/375 ML
Score: 95/A- FWR 97

Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2002 Riesling Eiswein WEHLENER SONNENUHR - The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Eiswein is more intense with a sharper acidity, but also apparently with a little botrytis that gives the wine slightly raisiny fruit. I'd drink this wine young. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 14 03. $108/375 ML
Score: 95/A- FWR 97

Joh. Jos. Prüm Mosel valley

After observing that this may well be the greatest white wine estate on earth, what is left to say?

Joh. Jos. Prüm 2002 Riesling Kabinett GRAACHER HIMMELREICH - The Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett shows plenty of incipient apricot fruit in the nose and mouth. For the moment, the wine lacks a touch of depth and grip, but I wouldn't be surprised if that is just hidden by the structure and will come later. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 03.
Score: 90(+?)/A FWR 97

Joh. Jos. Prüm 2002 Riesling Kabinett WEHLENER SONNENUHR - No question about the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett. The wine is pure and deep with tremendous grip and acidity to support the very deep, ripe, pure apricot fruit. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 10 03.
Score: 94(+)/A+ FWR 97

Joh. Jos. Prüm 2002 Riesling Spätlese GRAACHER HIMMELREICH - Prüm's Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese has characteristic grape-fruit peel flavors with great attack and grip on the palate and fine length to the rose and peach fruit. As with all Prüm wines, expect some cellaring until this is at its peak. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 6 03.
Score: 94/A FWR 97

Joh. Jos. Prüm 2002 Riesling Spätlese WEHLENER SONNENUHR - The wine has tremendous depth to its apricot aromas and flavors, the dense, chewy tex-ture typical of J.J. Prüm wines, and tremendous energy, electricity and depth. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 7 03.
Score: 95(+)/A+ FWR 97

Joh. Jos. Prüm 2002 Riesling Auslese GRAACHER HIMMELREICH - The Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese is stony but smooth and refined with lem-ony fruit and outstanding length. It's way too young to be drinking 2002 Prüm wines, but this one is hard to resist, even though it will improve with time. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 17 03.
Score: 95(+)/A FWR 97

Joh. Jos. Prüm 2002 Riesling Auslese WEHLENER SONNENUHR - The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese is sweeter (although less so than some wines), and is more closed, but with great depth and outstanding concentration and honeyed fruit. This is a superb wine to lay away for a decade or so. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 13 03.
Score: 97/ A+ FWR 97

Joh. Jos. Prüm 2002 Riesling Gold Capsule Auslese WEHLENER SONNENUHR
No question that Manfred Prüm's 2002 Wehlener Sonnenuhr GKA is a very great wine, the only question is how great. Quite tight at the moment, and yet the depth and purity of the botrytis and the balance between the acidity and sugar are perfect with concentrated, intense apricot fruit. But be prepared to cellar this wine a minimum of 12-15 years, and if you wait 25-30, you'll be even better rewarded. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 31 03. Score: 97(+)/ A+ FWR 106

Bert Simon / Herrenberg Saar valley

This is the most underrated estate in the Saar, and perhaps the whole Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. The vineyards are impossibly steep and lately the wines Simon has been getting from them are pure Saar - stony and firm.

Bert Simon 2002 Riesling Spätlese TROCKEN SERRIG HERRENBERG - The Serrig Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese trocken is a rather full wine (12% alcohol) with an oily texture, stone and hay aromas and flavors, and a firm, succulent texture with complete dryness but also round, soft acids. The overall effect is airier than the Pfalz (which is not far away), earthier than a Nahe wine, and richer, less nervy than a Mosel. Allow the wine a few years in the cellar to mature and you will have a surpris-ingly good wine to pair with food. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 03.
Score: 90(+)/B+ FWR 97

Bert Simon 2002 Riesling Spätlese TROCKEN WEISSER BURGUNDER - Simon's Weisser Burgunder Riesling Spätlese trocken is a real surprise - unchaptalized Pinot Blanc from the Saar Valley. The wine is austere, steely, and earthy in the nose, but on the palate, there is an attractive creaminess and light walnut flavors, sup-ported by bracing Saar acidity. A good wine to pair with shell-fish, poultry, pork, as well as a host of vegetarian foods. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:2 03.
Score: 89/ B+ FWR 97

Bert Simon 2002 Riesling Kabinett SERRIG HERRENBERG - The Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Kabinett is classic Saar wine with great attack on the palate from the acidity and deep, pure, dense, stony, austere aromas and flavors that even-tually will round out to lush peaches and apricots. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 5 03. $16.00
Score: 92/A FWR 97

Bert Simon 2002 Riesling Spätlese SERRIG WÜRTZBERG - Similarly, Simon's Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Spätlese is a classic with stony, austere, dusty aromas and incipient apricot and stone flavors with plenty of grip. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 7 03.
Score: 93+/A FWR 97

Bert Simon 2002 Riesling Auslese SERRIG WÜRTZBERG - Finally, the Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Auslese has racy, spicy fruit with some sweetness. At least as a young wine, this is for meals and not dessert, but it is quite tightly wound and concentrated and may yet blossom forth to something still more spectacular. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 8 03.
Score: 93(+)/A- FWR 97

Zilliken Saar valley

To my taste, many of these wines simply do not have the nervy, firm acidic core that I used to find at this estate and that I consider a hallmark of Saar wines. They are good wines, but they could be even better.

Zilliken 2002 RIESLING BUTTERFLY - (essentially a halbtrocken, but not so stated) Butterfly with its new label is a great success. It shows beautiful white peach fruit with a juicy texture, length, and great restraint. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1403. $15.00
Score: 90/A FWR 97

Zilliken 2002 RIESLING BUTTERFLY R - Meant as a more luxurious wine, is a bit stonier in the nose, but with similar riper white peach fruit in the mouth and a bit more succulence to the body. To my taste, the acidity is not high enough to support this degree of ripeness as successfully as in the regular Butterfly bottling. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1303.
Score: 87/A- FWR 97

Zilliken 2002 RIESLING - Is attractive for the slate lime fruit, but the wine is just a touch too soft on the palate to deliver its full potential. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11-03.
Score: 86/ B+ FWR 97

Zilliken 2002 Riesling Kabinett OCKFENER BOCKSTEIN - Shows ginger in the nose and mouth and is medium-weight. An enjoyable wine that would be better with more grip from higher acidity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:10-03.
Score: 89/A- FWR 97

Zilliken 2002 Riesling Kabinett SAARBURGER RAUSCH - Shows fresh bushes and orange aromas, followed by a juicy chewy texture with mint flavors and length but seems to be relatively low in acid. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 8 03. $20.00
Score: 90/A FWR 97

Zilliken 2002 Riesling Spätlese OCKFENER BOCKSTEIN - Is dense and almost chewy with stony aromas and flavors and even a hint of date on the palate. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 7-03.
Score: 90/ B+ FWR 97

Zilliken 2002 Riesling Spätlese (AP 6) SAARBURGER RAUSCH - Has rose petal and peach aromas and flavors with better acidity than the Riesling Kabinett and nice balance. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 06 03. $29.00
Score: 92/A FWR 97

Zilliken 2002 Riesling Spätlese (AP 4) SAARBURGER RAUSCH - The second batch, an auction wine, has magnificent, subtle, and complex delineations of lime blossom, vanilla, and a touch of date in its nose and rich, viscous mouth. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 4-03.
Score: 94/A FWR 97

Zilliken 2002 Riesling Auslese SAARBURGER RAUSCH - The Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese is pleasing with orange and lemon zest and peach aromas and flavors and a chewy texture, but the wine lacks some concentration and nervosity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 05 03. $45.00
Score: 90/B FWR 97

Zilliken 2002 Riesling Auslese Gold Kapsule Auslese SAARBURGER RAUSCH - The following wines are all auction wines. Zilliken's Saarburger Rausch GKA is an amazing wine with powerful, botrytized, smoky lime aromas and flavors that seem to last forever. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 3 03. Score: 96(+)/A FWR 97

Zilliken 2002 Riesling Auslese Long Gold Kapsule Auslese SAARBURGER RAUSCH - The Saarburger Rausch LGKA is simply a richer, more intense version of the former, with just a little less liveliness. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 2 03.
Score: 96(+)/A FWR 97

Zilliken 2002 Riesling Eiswein SAARBURGER RAUSCH - The Saarburger Rausch Eiswein shows no botrytis, and instead lovely lemon rind aromas and lemon curd flavors. However, as good as the wine is, it lacks the cutting acidity that gives the crystalline quality to the greatest Eisweine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1-03.
Score: 95/A- FWR 97

Schäfer-Fröhlich Nahe region

This estate has recently been able to acquire some high profile vineyards, but the home base Bockenauer Felseneck is no slouch, either. Based on these wines, the first I have ever tasted from the estate, it is headed toward the top rank of Nahe producers, as these exciting wines show.

Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling Spätlese trocken MONZINGER HALENBERG - The Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese trocken is from a slate vineyard, and thus has the extra minerality and severity of a Mosel property. For now, the wine is very dry and nervy from the acidity and with great clarity - a perfect fit for raw shellfish. A few years in the cellar should round the wine out and make it suitable for a wider range of dishes. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 20-03.
Score: 89(+)/A- FWR 97

Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling trocken MONZINGER FRÜHLINGSPLÄTZCHEN"Grosses Gewächs" - Is austere and citric, as one would expect of its slate soils on steep slopes. This is an austere wine with just a hint of brown sugar and some earthy flavors that is probably best given 2-4 years to round out. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 23-03.
Score: 88/A FWR 97

Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling halbtrocken - Is from vineyards planted on blue slate, quartz, and scree. The nose shows mineral lime aromas, followed by ripe, pure lime fruit in the mouth. Lovely for drinking over the next few years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 08 03. $16.00
Score: 89/A FWR 97

Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling halbtrocken BOCKENAUER FELSENECK - Lacks the depth and potential of some of the other wines here, but for drinking now, it is sheer delight. The residual sugar rounds and softens the wine, but only leaves a slight suggestion of sweetness to go with the crystalline clarity of the stony, mineral flavors and aromas and the medium-weight body that is sleek but not aggressive. This is a great wine for food. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 04 03.
Score: 89/A FWR 97

Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling Kabinett SCHLOSSBÖCKELHEIMER FLESENBERG - The Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Kabinett (which I believe may be sold as estate Riesling Kabinett in the US) is very pure with a dusty, stony nose, and white peach flavors that feature a touch of spice and lemon. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11-03.
Score: 92/A FWR 97

Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling Spätlese BOCKENAUER FELSENECK - The Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese has an interesting, dusty nose that seems characteristic of the vineyard, followed by a crisp, stony body with incipient peach fruit that shows certain lime overtones and crys-talline clarity. For now, the acidity balances the sweetness so the wine appears off-dry. An arresting wine that with time may be stunning. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 10-03.
Score: 92(+)/A FWR 97

Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling Spätlese MONZINGER HALENBERG - In contrast, the Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese is more perfumed and floral in the nose, sweeter on the palate, and more forward with a riper peach and apple fruit. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 13-03.
Score: 93/A FWR 97

Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling Spätlese MONZINGER FRÜHLINGSPLÄTZCHEN - Somewhat rounder and richer than the two foregoing, the Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Spätlese is a chewy, almost mouthfilling wine that sacrifices some elegance for its power. The fruit still centers around peaches, but more of a yellow peach with some earthiness. Here, too, the acidity for the moment makes this wine almost off-dry in perception. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12-03.
Score: 92/A FWR 97

Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling Spätlese (GOLD KAPSULE) BOCKENAUER FELSENECK - Blue slate and some quartzite are the soils for the Bockenauer Felseneck Gold Cap Riesling Spätlese. The wine has a dusty rose nose, with crystalline acidity on the palate and Rheingau ripeness to the peach flavors, and an interesting orange overtone. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 17 03.
Score: 92/A FWR 97

Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling Auslese BOCKENAUER FELSENECK - Is bright, mineral and acidity with orange and strawberry aromas and flavors. Give this wine some time to develop, but it is most promising. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 27-03. $70/375 ML
Score: 94(+)/A FWR 97

Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling Gold Kapsule Auslese BOCKENAUER FELSENECK - This auction wine is little short of dazzling for its strong botrytis expression in nose and mouth and excellent acidity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 28-03.
Score: 95/A FWR 97

Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling (GOLD KAPSULE) Eiswein BOCKENAUER FELSENECK - Finally, the Eiswein appears to have some botrytis but also great purity and cutting sharpness from the acidity, making this wine half-way between a classic Eiswein and a Riesling Beerenauslese. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 19-03.
Score: 96/A FWR 97

Franz Künstler Rheingau region

How gratifying it is to see Gunther Künstler return to his rightful place as one of the most elite producers in Germany after a few inconsistent vintages.

Franz Künstler 2002 Riesling Spätlese trocken (HOCHHEIMER) HÖLLE
The Hochheimer Hölle Spätlese trocken features pure, deep clay/earth, nuts, and yellow plum aromas and flavors. The wine is not hard and shows great depth. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 13 03.
Score: 93/A FWR 99

Franz Künstler 2002 Riesling Auslese trocken (dry) (HOCHHEIMER) HÖLLE
I've often noted that dry Auslese Riesling is very difficult to achieve and that Künstler is one of the few masters of the art. With the Hölle Auslese trocken he has taken the art to a new level. This wine is intense and powerful, yet at the same time balanced and retaining ele-gance. Deep minerality mark this wine, with some hazelnut overtones - this wine stands at the level of many of the finest premier cru and even grand cru Burgundies from Puligny. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 23 03.
Score: 95/A FWR 99

Franz Künstler 2002 Riesling Auslese trocken (dry) (HOCHHEIMER) KIRCHENSTÜCK
The Kirchenstück Auslese trocken is rounder and softer on the palate (presumably a touch of re-sidual sugar accomplishes this) with elegance and hazelnut aromas and flavors. Drink over the next 6-8 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 024 03.
Score: 93/A- FWR 99

Franz Künstler 2002 Riesling halbtrocken (medium-dry)
The Riesling halbtrocken has pear blossom aromas and a body of ripe, pure, rich vanilla and pear flavors. Last digits of A.P. Nr. 06 03.
Score: 89/A FWR 99

Franz Künstler 2002 Riesling Kabinett (HOCHHEIMER) REICHESTAL
The Hochheimer Reichestal Kabinett is magnificent with its nose of ripe peaches followed by great depth and length to the ripe peach flavors and a round texture. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 03 03.
Score: 93/A FWR 99

Franz Künstler 2002 Riesling Spätlese (HOCHHEIMER) KIRCHENSTÜCK
The Hochheimer Kirchenstück Spätlese is nothing short of stunning with its great acidity, depth, and precision to the beautiful, filigreed peach fruit. This wine is still quite young, though and I would want to cellar it for 5-6 years before starting in on it. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 001 03.
Score: 95/A+ FWR 99

Franz Künstler 2002 Riesling Gold Kapsule Auslese (HOCHHEIMER) HÖLLE
Subtly botrytized and juicy in texture, the Hochheimer Hölle Gold Cap Auslese is dense, yet elegant on the palate with honeyed fruit and caramel. Harvested at 120º Oechsle and 100% botrytised, this is in fact declassified BA. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 02 03.
Score: 95/A FWR 99

Franz Künstler 2002 Riesling Eiswein (HOCHHEIMER) HÖLLE
The Hochheimer Hölle Eiswein shows pineapple, orange, and caramel aromas and flavors and is dense and long. There appears to be some botrytis in this wine, so I would opt for drinking it in its young, flamboyant stage. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 020 03
Score: 95/A- FWR 99

Wegeler Rheingau region

Olivier Haag, son of Wilhelm Haag of the great Fritz Haag estate in Brauneberg, is the winemaker here, and his products live up to expectations.

Wegeler 2002 Riesling Kabinett trocken (dry) OESTRICHER LENCHEN
The outstanding quality of the Oestricher Lenchen Kabinett trocken took me partly by surprise, but given the producer, the vineyard, and the vintage, that should not have been the case. The wine is pure with deep, concen-trated lime fruit and fine depth. Plenty of acidity here, making this an excellent shellfish wine when young. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 403.
Score: 91/A FWR 99

Wegeler 2002 Riesling GEHEIM RAT "J" Riesling Spätlese trocken (dry)
In 2002, Wegeler has a magnificent Geheim Rat "J", long its standard Riesling Spätlese trocken and made from a blend of five Erstes Gewächs vineyards. The wine is pure, steely, slightly lemony, sleek, and perfectly balanced. Given the price that some of the prestige Rieslings from Alsace and Austria sell for, this wine, while not cheap, is still a bargain. I'd hold it for 6-8 years before I contemplated opening. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 14 03.
Score: 95/A+ FWR 99

Wegeler 2002 Riesling Spätlese trocken (dry) WINKEL JESUITENGARTEN
The Winkel Jesuitengarten is an Erstes Gewächs wine, and thus a Spätlese trocken, even though not so labelled. This wine, too, is steely and sleek, but somewhat richer, less citric and emphasizing more the plum fruit that with extended aeration becomes a little tropical. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 13 03.
Score: 94/A FWR 99

Wegeler 2002 Riesling halbtrocken (medium-dry)
The halbtrocken is far more interesting than one would expect from the label - a Rheingau QbA off dry. It has ginger aromas and in the mouth is round and chewy with yellow plum flavors and a medium-full body. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 03 03.
Score: 88/A FWR 99

Wegeler 2002 Riesling Kabinett
Wegeler's Kabinett is fairly closed in the nose but shows apple and cinnamon fruit in its ample mouth. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 09 03.
Score: 88+/B+ FWR 99

Wegeler 2002 Riesling Spätlese RÜDESHEIMER BERG ROTTLAND
At Wegeler, one is privileged to be able to compare the two great Berg vineyards. The Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland has spiced plum, citrus, and strawberry aromas and flavors with medium weight and excellent balance. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 03.
Score: 94/A FWR 99

Wegeler 2002 Riesling Spätlese RÜDESHEIMER BERG SCHLOSSBERG
The Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Spätlese is a wine that stands out for its depth and balance. Dates and plums in the nose and mouth, perhaps a touch of botrytis, but an overlay of refreshing lime, too, from the slate. The wine is me-dium-sweet and great now, perhaps even better in 7-8 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 21 03.
Score: 94+/A FWR 99

Wegeler 2002 Riesling Auslese GEISENHEIMER ROTHENBERG
The Geisenheimer Rothenberg Auslese is packed with peach and apricot fruit and great length. It needs more time, though. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 15 03.
Score: 94+/A FWR 99

Wegeler 2002 Riesling Eiswein GEISENHEIMER ROTHENBERG
My only question about he Geisenheimer Rothenberg Eiswein is why it is labeled Eiswein and not BA. The wine's color is golden, and the nose and mouth show significant botrytized fruit, albeit with the great acidity of an Eiswein, and a very dense body. Either way, an impressive wine, and one that should provide great enjoyment for at least 8-10 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1903.
Score: 96/A FWR 99

Robert Weil Rheingau region

These were the highest musts at Weil since 1976.

Robert Weil 2002 Riesling trocken (dry)
Weil's QbA trocken is austere, deep, and crystalline, an excellent Riesling for food. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 25 03.
Score: 87/A- FWR 99

Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Spätlese trocken (dry)
The Spätlese trocken similarly is a difficult wine to judge at this point. I find depth and tremendous energy brought on by the acidity, but for the moment, much less than I expect in aroma and flavor, a very closed wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 32 03.
Score: 86(+?)/C FWR 99

Robert Weil 2002 Riesling (dry / "First Growth") GRÄFENBERG
The Gräfenberg Spätlese trocken has lively acidity, balance, depth and stony, pure fruit. It is a wine that needs several years in the cellar, though. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 42 03.
Score: 94(+)/A FWR 99

Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken (medium-dry)
Weil's Kabinett halbtrocken has red plum and peach aromas, and red plum flavors with a chewy texture, length and depth in the mouth, and lemony finish. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 36 03.
Score: 90/A FWR 99

Robert Weil 2002 Riesling
While not terrible, the Rheingau QbA Riesling is one of the less impressive wines to come out of this great estate in recent years. It is off-dry with simple red and yellow plum fruit, an ignoble chewy texture that is rather coarse, and no great length. An adequate wine for simple meals, but nothing more. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 16 03.
Score: 83/C FWR 99

Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Kabinett
On the other hand, Weil's Kabinett is perhaps more of a minor Spätlese, but most won't complain. The wine has mineral plum peach, and hazelnut aromas, sweetness balanced against cutting acidity on the palate, and succulent plum and apricot flavors. It is lovely for current drinking and should still be doing well in 15-20 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 17 03.
Score: 91/A FWR 99

Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Spätlese
The Spätlese is outstanding with ripe plum aromas, and a ripe, round mouth with red and yellow plums, depth, and out-standing balance. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 80 03.
Score: 92(+)/A FWR 99

Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Spätlese KIEDRICHER GRÄFENBERG
The Kiedricher Gräfenberg Spätlese features pure spiced plum aromas and flavors with pinpoint precision and excellent balance. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 07 03.
Score: 95+/A+ FWR 99

Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Auslese KIEDRICHER GRÄFENBERG
The Kiedricher Gräfenberg Auslese is simply an amazing wine. It is highly botrytized, but pure and crystalline, in fact with an Eiswein-like purity to its flavors. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 08 03.
Score: 97/A+ FWR 99

Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Eiswein KIEDRICHER GRÄFENBERG
Weil's Kiedricher Gräfenberg Eiswein shows red and black plum aromas. In the mouth, the wine is deep, pure, and nervy with essence of Riesling flavors, all in all superb. Acidity in this wine is 13.5 g/l. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 14 03.
Score: 97/A FWR 99

Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Beerenauslese (BA) KIEDRICHER GRÄFENBERG
The Kiedricher Gräfenberg BA is impressive for its thorough botrytis in nose and mouth yielding caramel, date and cocoa aromas and flavors and its creamy texture, but to my palate, the acidity is low compared to other vintages. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 03.
Score: 96/A- FWR 99

Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) KIEDRICHER GRÄFENBERG
More botrytis and weight on the Kie-dricher Gräfenberg TBA is similar to the BA but with still more concentration. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 15 03.
Score: 96/A- FWR 99

Gunderloch Rheinhessen region

From one of Germany's greatest estates, the Hasselbachs continue to turn out great wines at all levels.

Gunderloch 2002 Riesling trocken (APN 06 03) $15.00
Shows depth, citric fruit, and minerality to the rich-textured mouth. Ripe, as a Rheinhessen should be, but with excellent acidity and depth and crystalline quality. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 0603.
Score: 90/A FWR 99

Gunderloch 2002 "JEAN-BAPTISTE" Riesling Kabinett (APN 02 03) $17.00
Peach aromas and flavors and has an overall impression of dryness because of the high acidity (10 g/l vs. 25 g/l sugar). Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 02 03.
Score: 91/A FWR 99

Gunderloch 2002 DIVA Riesling Spätlese
Gunderloch's Diva Spätlese has red fruits aromas that are light and airy. In the mouth, the wine has pure yellow plum fruit of medium length. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 08 03.
Score: 91/A- FWR 99

Gunderloch 2002 Riesling Spätlese NACKENHEIM ROTHENBERG $30.00
The signature Nackenheim Rothenberg Spätlese, a wine that has diesel, peach, and cocoa aromas, and is round, ripe and deep with citrus, tropical fruit, cocoa, almond, and peach fla-vors and a lush texture. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 03.
Score: 94/A FWR 99

Gunderloch 2002 Riesling Auslese NACKENHEIM ROTHENBERG $43.00
The Nackenheim Rothenberg Auslese features very ripe, pure yellow peach aromas and flavors with cinnamon on the finish. The wine is astonishing in its purity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 03.
Score: 96/A FWR 99

Gunderloch 2002 Riesling Gold Kapsule Auslese NACKENHEIM ROTHENBERG
The Nackenheim Rothenberg Gold Cap Auslese has lemon zest, peach, and botrytis in the nose, more apparent acid-ity on the palate, and great length, but this wine needs time to come together and show its full capabilities. It is a virtual Beerenauslese, and undoubtedly could be legally sold as such. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 30 03
Score: 96+/A FWR 99

Reichsrat von Buhl Pfalz region

Jan Kux has replaced Frank John as the winemaker here, and the resulting wines are more forward in style, although still outstanding.

von Buhl 2001 RIESLING SEKT BRUT
Sekt is German sparkling wine, and this is a really lovely one with a stony austerity worthy of a good Champagne, but with a certain minerality that comes from the Riesling. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 46 03.
Score: 87/A- FWR 99

von Buhl 2002 Riesling Kabinett trocken (dry)
The Kabinett trocken is a lovely wine with peach and hazelnut aromas and flavors and a creamy, oily texture that is supported by crisp acidity and good depth. It is excellent for drinking now and should be even better in a few years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 04 03.
Score: 90/A FWR 99

von Buhl 2002 Riesling Kabinett trocken (dry) DEIDESHEIMER KIESELBERG
The Deidesheimer Kieselberg Kabinett trocken is from a famous vineyard that in the 1980s underwent reorganization and replanting. As a result, there were several vintages of young vine wines to go through, but now the vines are reaching a respectable age, and the resulting wines demonstrate the great potential of the vineyard. This is a much tighter, deeper wine than the foregoing wine, with minerality and firmness as its main characteristics for the moment. I think that those willing to cellar this wine for 4-6 years will have a real dazzler when they finally put it on the table. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 14 03.
Score: 92/A FWR 99

von Buhl 2002 Riesling Spätlese trocken
Von Buhl's Spätlese trocken is an amazingly good wine for current drinking. The wine is mineral and pure in nose and mouth with an unctuous texture but also a cutting edge from the acidity. For the next 4-6+ years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 05 03.
Score: 91/A- FWR 99

von Buhl 2002 Riesling Spätlese trocken (dry) FORSTER UNGEHEUER
The Forster Ungeheuer Spätlese trocken appears to have less sulfur than many of its peers, and as a result, can be drunk already. Very dense in texture, I find the same incipient apricot fruit in both nose and mouth. I'd drink now-2012. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 48 03.
Score: 92/A FWR 99

von Buhl 2002 Riesling (Spätlese trocken / dry "First Growth") (RUPERTSBERG) REITERPFAD
The Reiterpfad is an Erstes Gewächs (First Growth) offering. Mineral with some hazelnut, the nose is very complex and perfumed. In the mouth, the wine is round, dry, smooth and lively with hazelnut and a touch of ginger. I would give this wine at least a year or two of cellaring before drinking. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 33 03.
Score: 91+/A- FWR 99

von Buhl 2002 "MARIA SCHNEIDER JAZZ" Riesling medium-dry
The "Maria Schneider" halbtrocken is crystalline and stony with citrus fruits, an attractive wine for drinking with food over the next several years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 19 03.
Score: 88/A FWR 99

von Buhl 2002 "ARMAND" Riesling Kabinett
The Armand Kabinett is, as always, an ex-tremely attractive wine. Lime zest aromas are followed in the mouth by crystalline red and yellow plum and lime flavors, re-minding of a Rheingau. Delicious now and it should only im-prove over the next several years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 02 03.
Score: 90(+)/A FWR 99

von Buhl 2002 Riesling Spätlese FORSTER JESUITENGARTEN
Von Buhl's Forster Jesuitengarten Spätlese has cocoa and dark plum flavors and aromas, and cocoa and lime peel on the finish. The wine is complex and slightly exotic, making for a superb bottle already and for years to come. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 8 03.
Score: 93/A FWR 99

von Buhl 2002 Riesling Gold Kapsule Auslese FORSTER UNGEHEUER
Finally, the Forster Ungeheuer Gold Cap Auslese, which contains quite a bit of Eiswein, is sweet and botrytized with brown sugar, orange peel, and excellent acidity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 43 03.
Score: 95(+)/A FWR 99

Pfeffingen Pfalz region

Perhaps it is because Pfeffingen is so consistent and reliable that it often does not receive the attention it deserves. 2002 is another outstanding collection here, as did 2001, 2000 (that most difficult of vintages, especially in the Pfalz) and so on. With this vintage, Jan Eymael, son of Doris Fuhrmann-Eymael, has now taken over operations and presents a most promising future.

Pfeffingen 2002 Riesling trocken (dry)
The Riesling trocken is dry on the palate, but also succulent and lively with typical earthy Pfalz fruit and excellent acidity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 05 03.
Score: 91/A FWR 99

Pfeffingen 2002 Riesling Spätlese trocken (dry) UNGSTEINER WEILBERG
Pfeffingen's Ungsteiner Weilberg Spätlese trocken displays depth, harmony, elegance, and minerality. Extremely versatile for food, it is delightful now, but should go a minimum of 12-15 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 23 03.
Score: 92/A FWR 99

Pfeffingen 2002 "PFEFFO" Riesling Kabinett medium-dry
The Pfeffo Kabinett halbtrocken shows pear aromas and a round, chewy mouth with spice to the mineral Pfalz flavors and fine length. Last dig-its of A.P. Nr.: 14 03.
Score: 90/A FWR 99

Pfeffingen 2002 Riesling Spätlese UNGSTEINER HERRENBERG
The Ungsteiner Herrenberg Spätlese is rich, ripe, and earthy with chewy lime peel and pineapple flavors and slight sweetness on the finish. Try this with pork, fowl, or vegetable dishes and you'll be amazed at what a good partner it is. Last digits of A.P. Nr: 16 03.
Score: 92/A FWR 99

Pfeffingen 2002 Scheurebe Spätlese UNGSTEINER HERRENBERG
The Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe Spätlese shows typical exotic notes of roses and lychee nuts with power, but also finesse, and fine length. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 03 03.
Score: 93/A FWR 99

Pfeffingen 2002 Gewürztraminer Spätlese (Ungsteiner Nußriegel)
You need to view the back label to determine that the Gewürztraminer Spätlese is from the Ungsteiner Nußriegel vineyard. This is a most beautiful wine with restrained spiciness to the fruit and a touch of caramelization, excellent acidity that is at the same time gentle, and a filigreed quality to the fruit. The acidity cuts the sweetness, so the wine tastes just off-dry. No rustic rose or pomade overtones here. Beautiful to drink now, and should age for 10-15+ years. A great wine for food, from roast chicken to cheese to paté. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 04 03.
Score: 92/A FWR 99

Pfeffingen 2002 Scheurebe Gold Kapsule Auslese (UNGSTEINER HERRENBERG)
The Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe Gold Cap Auslese is delightful and more for its rose aromas and flavors with botrytis and super acidity. This wine will easily outlive you. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 18 03.
Score: 95/A FWR 99

Pfeffingen 2002 Scheurebe Beerenauslese (UNGSTEINER HERRENBERG)
Finally, the Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe Beerenauslese is way too young to drink now. Tremendous acidity and ginger/rose aromas and flavors, leave this wine in the cellar 10-13 years, minimum. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 19 03.
Score: 94(+)/B+ FWR 99

Ökonomierat Rebholz Pfalz region

These are the first wines I've had from Rebholz, the Southern Pfalz's most famous producer and one of the few producers in that sub-region who has a reputation for Riesling. We are actually closer to the northern Alsace town of Wissembourg than to the central Pfalz villages of Forst, Deidesheim, etc. Both wines are Erstes Gewächs. They are very different because the terroirs are different.

Rebholz 2002 Riesling (Spätlese trocken) (BIRKWEILER) KASTANIENBUSCH
The Kastanienbusch is refined with a silky tex-ture and mineral fruit that is subtle and not sharp or aggressive. It is superb for drinking now, but I expect it has a good aging potential, also. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 021 03.
Score: 94/A FWR 99

Rebholz 2002 Riesling (Spätlese trocken) (SIEBELDINGEN) IM SONNENSCHEIN
Rebholz's Im Sonnenschein is a marked contrast, being a more forceful wine with more apparent acidity and is earthier with less forward fruit and a drier finish. This is a wine that should benefit from a minimum of 4-6 years' aging. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 19 03.
Score: 92(+)/A FWR 99

Hans Wirsching Franken region

As usual, a great collection here.

Wirsching 2002 Silvaner dry
Wirsching's Silvaner trocken is dry and powerful with mineral, lemony flavors, an outstanding QbA.
Score: 88/A FWR 99

Wirsching 2002 Silvaner Spätlese trocken (dry) IPHÖFER JULIUS-ECHTER BERG
The Iphöfer Julius-Echter Berg Silvaner Spätlese trocken in theory should be markedly superior, but in truth, I found this wine overripe and showing some residual sugar that was not balanced by the acidity. Perhaps some botrytis and disappointingly flabby. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 050 03.
Score: 84/C- FWR 99

Wirsching 2002 Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder) Spätlese trocken (dry) IPHÖFER KRONSBERG
Wirsching's Iphöfer Weissburgunder Kronsberg Spätlese trocken is reason enough to demonstrate why he deserves to be on a short list of the world's great producers of dry white wine. The wine does not have the earthy rusticity of most other Pinot Blancs, but instead is pure, focused, and precise, like a great Riesling. I love the wine for current drinking, but surely it will last 5-6 years, maybe substantially longer.
Score: 92/A FWR 99

Wirsching 2002 Scheurebe Spätlese trocken (dry) IPHÖFER KRONSBERG
The Iphöfer Kronsberg Scheurebe Spätlese trocken is a magnificent wine with leafy, floral aromas and flavors and a chewy texture. Try to let this wine develop over 5-6 years if you can.
Score: 93/A FWR 99

Wirsching 2002 Riesling Spätlese trocken (dry) IPHÖFER JULIUS-ECHTERBERG
Wirsching's Iphöfer Julius-Echterberg Spätlese trocken displays the finesse and clarity that set his wines apart from other wines of the region, however fine those others may be. Pure lemon and lime blossom aromas and flavors with an elegant mouth sup-ported by a non-aggressive but present acidity that renders the wine subtle and refined. A superb wine for drinking now and it should age for some time. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 047 03.
Score: 93/A FWR 99

Wirsching 2002 Riesling Eiswein IPHÖFER KRONSBERG
The Iphöfer Kronsberg Eiswein is round and sweet with essence-of-Riesling lemon curd fruit, perhaps some botrytis, but if so, well handled, but not the cutting acidity that I expect from top Eiswein. I'd drink over the next 5-6 years.
Score: 94/B+ FWR 99

Wirsching 2002 Rieslaner Beerenauslese (BA) IPHÖFER JULIUS-ECHTENBERG
The Iphöfer Julius-Echtenberg Rieslaner BA displays profound, botrytized brown sugar aromas and flavors with the requisite supporting acidity, depth, and length. This is a wine to hold 10-20 years.
Score: 96+/A- FWR 99

Wirsching 2002 Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) IPHÖFER JULIUS-ECHTENBERG
Finally, the Iphöfer Julius-Echtenberg Rieslaner TBA is simply phenomenal with its density and depth of botrytized fruit of brown sugar and caramel of incredible intensity.
Score: 97+/A FWR 99

Rudolf Fürst Franken region

Fürst 2002 Müller-Thurgau Kabinett trocken (dry)
It wasn't too long ago that I dismissed all Müller-Thurgaus as inferior, but wines such as this Müller-Thurgau Kabinett trocken have forced me to admit that I erred. The wine is floral and aromatic with melon and tropical fruit aromas and flavors, a firm, nervy texture, and a touch of earth on the finish. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 003 03.
Score: 90/A FWR 99

Fürst 2002 BUNTSANDSTEIN-TERRASSEN ALTER SATZ VON RIESLING & SILVANER
Fürst's Bunstsandstein-Terrassen is a mixture of old vine Riesling and Sylvaner from terraced, colored sandstone soils. The wine is absolutely delightful for its peach pit aromas, glossy, silky texture, and peach blossom flavors. The wine is not labeled dry, but it is essentially dry, with any residual sugar only contributing to roundness of texture and not sweetness. Drink over the next 3-6 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 014-03.
Score: 91/A FWR 99

Fürst 2002 Pinot Blanc (Weisser Burgunder)
Kabinett trocken (dry) BÜRGSTADTER CENTGRAFENBERG
The Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg Weißer Burgunder Kabinett trocken is a typical Pinot Blanc, with earthy, mineral aromas and flavors, a firm, juicy, and oily texture, and round, but mouth-watering acids. The wine is rustic, but makes an excellent accompaniment to pork, poultry, sausage, charcuterie, and the like. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 017-03.
Score: 88/A- FWR 99

Fürst 2002 Riesling Kabinett trocken (dry) BÜRGSTADTER CENTGRAFENBERG
Finally, the Burgstädter Centgrafenberg Kabinett trocken confirms my belief that Fürst is better sticking to "Germanic" varietals rather than "Burgundian" ones such as Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. This wine has floral aromas with hazelnuts and honeydew aromas. In the mouth, it shows outstanding acidity, penetration, but also roundness and honey dew melon fruit. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 02-2003.
Score: 92/A FWR 99

Fürst 2002 Riesling Spätlese trocken (dry) BÜRGSTADT CENTGRAFENBERG
The Bürgstadt Centgrafenberg Spätlese trocken is more mineral in nose and mouth with richness, depth, grip, a touch of oiliness, and potential to develop over 5-8+ years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 015-2003.
Score: 92/A FWR 99

Fürst 2002 Riesling Auslese BÜRGSTADT CENTGRAFENBERG
Switching to sweet wines, the Bürgstadt Centgrafenberg Auslese is a magnifi-cent wine with BA-like botrytis dominating in the honeyed, brown sugar nose and mouth, but no heaviness on the palate. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 018-03.
Score: 96/A FWR 99

Fürst 2002 Riesling Eiswein BÜRGSTADT CENTGRAFENBERG
Fürst's Bürgstadt Centgrafen-berg Eiswein, from its relatively dark color and tropical fruit aromas and flavors that overlay the classic lemon-lime Riesling apparently has botrytis in it. As such, it is not classic Eiswein, but is delicious nevertheless for consumption over the coming several years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 019-03.
Score: 94/B+ FWR 99

Dr. Heger / Weinhaus Heger Baden region

The loess soils of Ihringer Winklerberg are supposed to make it most favorable to Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder (Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, respectively), but these wines demonstrate that other varietals thrive there, too.

Dr. Heger 2002 Silvaner Kabinett trocken (dry) IHRINGER WINKLERBERG
The Ihringer Winklerberg Silvaner Kabinett trocken demonstrates that outside of Franken, where Sylvaner can make a great wine, the grape can still make outstanding wines. The wine is mineral and grapefruit in nose, later turning floral, and has lemony flavors with gripping acidity, fine length, and surprising elegance. One can begin the wine now, but it should be better in 2-3 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 00-03.
Score: 89/A FWR 99

Dr. Heger 2002 Muskateller Kabinett trocken (dry) IHRINGER WINKLERBERG
Heger's Ihringer Winklerberg Muskateller Kabinett trocken emphasizes the rose character-istics of the Muscat grape - and needs some time for it to come into balance with the other elements. The wine is strongly perfumed with a medium-weight body that shows both power and some delicacy. I'd wait a year or two allow the wine to settle down and drink it fairly well chilled. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 9-03.
Score: 89/A FWR 99

Dr. Heger 2002 Riesling Spätlese *** trocken (dry) IHRINGER WINKLERBERG
Heger's Irhinger Winklerberg Spätlese trocken *** is a marvelous wine with surprising finesse and great purity. The wine has lime blossom aromas and flavors, depth on the palate, smoothness and firmness. The wine is only 11% alcohol, and as a result, it is powerful, yet elegant - the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. I'd look to 2005-2013+ for best drinking. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 04-03.
Score: 93/A FWR 99

Dr. Heger 2002 Riesling Spätlese ACHKARRER SCHLOSSBERG
The Achkarrer Schlossberg Spätlese is somewhat floral in the nose and mouth with off-dry sweetness level and an overall elegance. This may be as close to an Alsatian Riesling as I've had from Baden, opposite the Rhine from Alsace, and would that most Alsatian Rieslings could match it in quality. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 06-03.
Score: 92/A FWR 99

Dr. Heger 2002 Riesling Spätlese IHRINGER WINKLERBERG
The Ihringer Winklerberg Spätlese is more mineral and lime-oriented, and it, too, resembles closely an Alsatian Riesling (of off-dry quality). Great length and finesse here - really drawn out and deeper than the previous wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 07 03.
Score: 93/A FWR 99

Weinhaus Heger 2002 Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) "Q" trocken (dry)
This is the négociant arm of Dr. Heger above. The Weissburgunder "Q" is made in a modern style that one could almost, but not quite, describe as international. It is floral and lemony with a silky texture and nice acidity. This is an excellent choice for restaurants and other occasions where one wants a wine of fine quality that will not steal the show. Drink over the next 2-5 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 20-03.
Score: 87/A FWR 99

Weinhaus Heger 2002 Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) "Q" trocken (dry)
The Grauerburgunder "Q" shows relatively high acidity in thus is more Germanic than Alsatian in structure for a Pinot Gris. The wine nevertheless shows characteristic buttery, grilled almond aromas and flavors. Drink with food, including red meats, over the next 6-10+ years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 28-03.
Score: 89/A FWR 99

Rudi Wiest Selections
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