International Wine Cellar
Issue 105
Germany 2001: Golden October? Nov/Dec '02
By David Schildknecht
The tale of German vintages is always one of rain and sunshine, but in
the past dozen years there has simply been much more of both. The 2001
growing season and harvest followed that pattern in spades. A warm spring
and an exceptionally early flowering got the year off to an excellent
start, but before the summer was out many areas were suffering from drought,
with growers hoping for a thundershower here and there to stave off shut-down
in the vines. The vines did not have to wait long for relief, as September
let loose with what looked like a repeat of 2000. In fact, some regions
experienced even heavier rainfall than they had the year before, and all
of them saw fewer hours of sunshine. Hopes were sinking, and growers were
all thinking "2000 again."
But there was one saving grace amid four weeks of steady rain. Unlike
in 2000, the temperature in 2001 turned e dramatically cool, so rot remained
merely sporadic and at a low level. The healthiest riesling grapes, most
of them with relatively thin clusters, were in a September holding pattern.
If the rain let up and there was some sunshine, the vintage could still
be excellent. As if on cue, that is what happened as October arrived.
Was this the "golden October" of German wine lore? It depends
which growers you ask, and in what growing areas. Many vintners reported
they were simply relieved that the rain had let up. Others, like Graach's
Willi Schaefer and Johannes Leitz of Rudesheim, testified to an October
"like in a dream, simply fantastic," during which one harvested
amid green foliage and in shorts and shirtsleeves.
Curiously, while acid levels gradually fell, sugars were slow to rise
past the relatively high point they had already reached in early September.
The critical determinants of success this year - as indeed they are in
any vintage - were the health and ripeness of the skins, influenced by
myriad microclimatic and human factors. No grower I spoke with claimed
that his or her fruit was ripe at the beginning of October. Fortunately,
the foliage remained green, in some cases through November. No significant
rain fell again until early November, and even then it was only for a
few days. The range of sugar levels was surprisingly narrow, and only
by dint of severe selection and considerable luck was it possible to achieve
Beerenauslesen or TBAs, despite there being tantalizing hints of noble
rot in many a Spätlese and sometimes less desirable notes of botrytis
as well.
The timing and ferocity of 2001's periods of drought and rain were perhaps
most reminiscent of 1996. And there was another striking similarity to
that year of occasional greatness because the grapes yielded very little
juice. Given high skin-to-juice ratios and an extended period of rain
during which the plants' roots fed voraciously, the 2001s show huge levels
of dry extract. A number of them, in fact, rise to the point of near-bitterness,
or exhibit a not always well-integrated tactile tartness. This was especially
evident in, but by no means confined to, dry wines. I confess to some
perplexity about many of the 2001s: is it sheer extract, abundant phenols,
or a brush with early rot that give many of them a hint of finishing hardness?
The measurable acid levels of the wines are frequently lower than in 1990,
and certainly far lower than in '96 or '98. At times, though, the acids
seem slightly out of harmony with the sugars, resulting in what I repeatedly
found myself describing as a lemonade-like flavor.
In a year with so much rain, there can be an almost invisibly fine line
at harvest separating delicacy from dilution in the resultant wines, and
a similar knife edge dividing botrytis richness from roughness. It was
clearly in the Middle Mosel that the largest number of 2001s walked the
right side of the line, and comparisons with the great 1975s do not seem
farfetched for wines with a subtle, vanilla-tinged expression of ripeness
and botrytis ennoblement, a dynamic yet harmonious interplay of sugar
and acids, and subtle but insistent, salty minerality perfectly folded
into the fruit. And it goes without saying that today vintners uniformly
take for granted a level of risk in the vineyards, selectivity at harvest,
and cleanliness in the cellar that very few of them accepted a quarter
century ago.
Growers who missed out on sporadic mid-November frosts were offered an
Eiswein opportunity in the week before Christmas. Given the high sugar
levels of the grapes going into that frost and the now virtually universal
use of humidity- and botrytis-trapping plastic film to protect fruit left
hanging, the results generally exhibit less than the classic high acidity
or flavor clarity of the best Eisweins. There are some quite ravishing,
elegant and approachable exceptions, but seldom are these wines truly
profound. Most growers (as in 1999) would have done their customers a
favor by eschewing Eiswein or subsuming the results (if not entirely legally)
into other cuvees.
Many readers have already been urged by rumor and by early reports in
the trade to pursue 2001s aggressively in the marketplace. In those instances
where the quality merits it, particularly among Middle Mosel rieslings,
I can only second this recommendation, particularly as yields were low.
Growers repeatedly reported that top wines were restlos ausverkauft (sold
out without remainder), at times backing this up by noting how lucky I
was that they had saved one last bottle to taste with me. (In some cases
they hadn't. If a significant wine was missing from my tastings, I have
in the interest of full disclosure ruefully noted this in the text.)
The following wines were tasted in August of this year, in the course
of my visits to 69 growers. I have generally listed the wines - representing
far fewer than half of those I encountered - in the order in which the
proprietors chose to serve them. This year's earlier date of publication
rendered it impossible for me to significantly supplement my report with
notes on sample bottles sent to me by growers whom I did not have time
to visit. If a grower is not mentioned in the text that follows, not even
briefly in a regional introduction, then I have not yet tasted his or
her 2001s. Wines marked "1 star" were particularly impressive
and in my experience correspond roughly with those of other regions rated
between 88 and 91 in these pages. "2 stars" signifies a wine
of profound complexity. Under no circumstances should these ratings, frequently
based on a single tasting, be considered in isolation from my full tasting
notes. In the interest of space, recommended wines that did not merit
a star have, except in rare instances, been relegated to a list appended
to the tasting notes; these lists also include a few starred wines that
are unlikely to be available in the U.S. market.
Schloss Lieser (Mosel valley)
Thomas Haag has scarcely disappointed in any of his ten vintages at the
revived Schloss Lieser, but in 2001 he broke new qualitative ground. "We
had gorgeous fruit and absolutely perfect acid structure," he proclaims,
and I could not agree more. Fans of Mosel riesling who pass over Schloss
Lieser because its vineyards are not famous will be doing themselves and
these wines a grave disservice.
Also recommended:
2001 Schloss Lieser Riesling Kabinett ($16),
2001 Lieserer Niederberg Helden Riesling Spätlese ($28),
2001 Lieserer Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese ($40).
2001 Schloss Lieser Riesling Spätlese
($12) Yeast, lime peel and fresh apple aromas lead to a juicy apple-and-melon
palate subtly and invigoratingly marked by faintly bitter citrus zest
and apple pit notes. The wine seems delicate, yet one catches an underlying
sense of richness and an oily textural nuance. Twenty grams of residual
sugar seems just right to accentuate the fruit. 1 star.
2001 Schloss Lieser Lieserer Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese
($32) Pineapple, lime and candied apple aromas. In the mouth, there is
a glossy texture but also a tingling brightness of acids, faint invigorating
pungency, and real grip. A deft balance of sugar and acidity allied to
great purity of fruit make for an elegant, rich but almost weightless
finishing impression. Slim but not slight; really packed with mineral
nuances even though not wearing its slate on its sleeve. Potential 2 stars.
2001 Schloss Lieser Lieserer Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese (two stars)
($50) Fresh ripe pear and apple aromas drenched in honey and brown spices
suggest a satisfying synergy of fruit and botrytis. "We spent the
first week of the harvest, under brilliant blue skies, just picking out
the best botrytis bunches, and these were really highly concentrated with
a very clean botrytis," explains Haag. The elegant, relatively gentle
and perfectly poised character of so many Schloss Lieser 2001s is repeated
here, but there is more grip on the palate, more acid-mineral spine and
another dimension of spicy, honeyed complexity. 2 stars.
2001 Schloss Lieser Lieserer Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese (three
stars) AP#10
($65) Apricot, sweet florality and honey mark the aroma. In the mouth,
there is an ethereal sense of lightness and delicacy, allied with tremendous
richness and mineral concentration, and a lively play of acids. Subtly
cooked apricot, flowers and honey dominate the palate action, while more
than 100 grams of residual sugar remain entirely behind the scenes. Astonishingly
subtle, pure and long even if, as yet anyway, it is not the last word
in sheer complexity. 2 stars.
2001 Schloss Lieser Lieserer Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese Long Gold
Capsule (three stars) #11
Pear and apricot nectar in the nose and mouth. Subtly honeyed and citric,
this brings a lively sense of acidity but not quite the remarkable poise
or textural allure of the best wines here today. One to revisit, certainly.
1 star.
2001 Schloss Lieser Lieserer Niederberg Helden Riesling Beerenauslese
(half bottle)
($120) Glazed apricot and pineapple syrup flavors are accentuated by sheer
sweetness, but there is some of the same elegance and lift that characterize
the other best Schloss Lieser 2001s. There is enough citricity to strike
a lovely balance throughout between gentleness and liveliness. The texture
is ultra-creamy. Subtle notes of caramel and apricot pit emerge in the
finish along with a genuine and rather unexpected sense of slate. An auction
Beerenauslese and a TBA were still fermenting when I visited in August.
1 star.
Mönchhof - Robert Eymael
(Mosel valley)
With the added experience and significant acreage gained over the past
several years, to say nothing of this producer collaboration with Christoffel,
Robert Eymael is gradually pulling his family estate back into the forefront
of Mosel viticulture.
Also recommended: 2001 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spätlese ($22).
2001 Robert Eymael Monchhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese Trocken
($22) Lemon rind and smoky slate in the nose. On the palate, a rather
mysterious blue fruit mingles with layers of citrus, spices, herbs and
stones. Toasted nuts, smoky slate and juicy fruit in the finish. 1 star.
2001 Robert Eymael Monchhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese
($22) More vintage- than site-typical pineapple and grapefruit aromas,
but the scent is lovely nonetheless. The citrus fruit flavors on the palate
run toward grapefruit and lemon, accented by plenty of brown spice, pungently
smoky minerality, and hints of sassafras and basil. There is an alluring
sense of creaminess in the mouth, yet the acids are consistently invigorating
and the finish long and involved. This holds a slight edge over the corresponding
Wurzgarten in both complexity and promise. 1 star.
2001 Robert Eymael Monchhof Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese AP#9
($40) The lightest of several Eymael Wurzgarten Auslesen this year, here
is a wine dominated by scents and flavors of candied lemon, strawberry
jam and vanilla. Doughy richness and a yeasty overlay give the palate
an impression of vanilla cake dipped in strawberry juice and layered with
jam. While not terrifically complex, here is an Auslese with utterly charming
and distinctive personality. 1 star.
2001 Robert Eymael Monchhof Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese AP#10
($40) Tea and white raisin aromas announce a wine that displays a fine
botrytis element on the palate. Here is another very custardy-rich 2001
with more than a tinge of vanilla. Site-typical strawberry emerges on
the back, along with a vivid wet-stone expression of slate and excellent
integration of sweetness and botrytis pungency. Potential 2 stars.
2001 Robert Eymael Monchhof Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese
($48) Lemon, sassafras and mandarin aromas. Juicy and bright in the mouth,
elegant and fine-grained; this is not nearly so fat or overtly sweet as
were many past Pralats here. Clear and bright in citrus and red fruits
and suffused with slate, this glides off to a long, subtle finish. "To
me, this lies directly between Wurzgarten and Treppchen in its character,"
says Eymael, "just as the vineyard does physically." I did not
taste Eymael auction (gold capsule) Auslese from Pralat. 1 star.
Joh. Jos. Prüm
(Mosel valley)
Manfred Prum was once again reluctant to show me his young wines above
the level of Auslese. And of the wines I tasted only the Kabinetts had
even been bottled. What I did taste left no doubt, however, that he has
done eloquent and complete justice to the opportunity nature offered.
Picking here did not begin until the end of October. Prum aptly sums up
the style of the vintage as "sleek and elegant."
2001 Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Kabinett Wehlener Sonnenuhr
($22) Yeasty, slightly cheesy fermentative aromas clear off to reveal
delicate sweet clover and apple blossom florality. The mouth reveals Prum
trademarks elegance and delicacy, subtle spritz, and an uncanny balance
of sugar and acid. Fresh apple, pink grapefruit, exotic spices and mineral
salts cavort in a juicy, refreshing matrix. There is a fascinating smoky
note allied to spice and slate in the finish. I completely agree with
Prum when he says that despite this wine manifest ripeness, "thanks
to lively acidity and pronounced minerality it preserves the character
of a true Kabinett." 2 stars.
2001 Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Spätlese Graacher Himmelreich
($27; from cask) With its aromas of apple and vanilla, I guessed this
to be a Wehlener. Glossy in texture and honeyed in flavor, it shows a
hint of white raisin but also juicy citricity and snap and sap to its
apple fruit. A vintage-typical spiciness adds further interest. 1 star.
2001 Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Spätlese Bernkasteler Badstube
($27; from cask) A classic Bernkastel nose of lime and black cherry and
smoky, pungent minerality leads to a vibrant, juicy mouthful of citrus,
pit fruits and stone. Yet there is also a hint of nougat and caramel.
The overall impression is clear and fine, the sugar and acidity in deft
if somewhat precarious balance and slate framing the fruit. Hangs on with
a note of lime zest but free of bitterness. 1 star.
2001 Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Spätlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr
($32; from cask) Yeasty, mealy fermentative notes form a halo around honey
and spices in the nose. This is creamy and polished in feel, sedate in
flavor, and boasts uncanny balance of sugar and acid. Apple jelly and
honey flavors and the richness of texture suggest Auslese character, yet
the play of acids and the overall delicacy of flavor are in the key of
classic Spätlese. Lovely notes of brown spice team up with apple and honey
in the finish, a rather tea-like sense of tannins not disturbing the texture
but only adding further fascinating counterpoint. The wine may not be
entirely typical Wehlen, but it is compelling. Potential 2 stars.
2001 Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Auslese Zeltinger Sonnenuhr
($32; from cask) The nose here suggests almost too much cinnamon spice
on the baked apples. Pungent cinnamon and nutmeg spice are in fact prominent
throughout, allied to baked apple and low-toned nuttiness on the palate.
Overt fruit and spice overwhelm any obvious, stony manifestation of slate
in a very rich palate full of riesling. There is nothing restrained about
the complex, deep flavors here. Potential 2 stars.
2001 Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Auslese Graacher Himmelreich
($32; from cask) High-toned citrus aromas of pineapple, grapefruit, lemon
and fresh tart apple. The acids here form a rather spiny skeleton but
there is such an abundance of forward, juicy fruit and of salty mineral
extract that the effect is invigorating. 1 star.
2001 Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Auslese Wehlener Sonnenuhr
($36; from cask) Prum calls this wine "typically somewhat reserved
vis-a-vis the Graacher Auslese" but I apprehend a level of sheer
flavor intensity that goes beyond the other wines here today, with apple,
honey and spice supported by a volatile esterous note of botrytis and
even a prickly Eiswein-like whiff of chili pepper. Impressive custardy
richness in the mouth, yet ripe, refreshing citricity keeps the wine dynamic
and salty minerality helps extend the finish. (In the interest of full
disclosure I pass on Prum explanation that this is one of "three
or four comparable lots" of Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese which will
be bottled separately. There will be gold capsule bottlings as well.)
2 stars.
Fritz Haag (Mosel valley)
"It was a wonderful year, with the acidity of '94, the fruit of '90
and the elegance of '71," says Wilhelm Haag of 2001, classing it
with the three or four best vintages of his illustrious career. This collection
excels over the full stylistic range and is in fact the only one that
can safely contend with Christoffel for the title of "best of vintage."
Haag began harvesting on October 10 and finished on November 17. "This
was perfect," he reports, "for the retention of acidity, which
was rather high but perfectly ripe."
Also recommended:
2001 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese Trocken ($45),
2001 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule A.P.
#9 ($80).
2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Trocken
($18; from the Juffer) Pearsy, delicately citric and with lovely underlying
nuttiness, this incongruously combines an impression of fullness with
a sense of lightness and delicacy. There is a brothy suggestion of mineral
extract worthy of the finest Chablis, evocative finishing slatiness and
sweet green herbs and flowers - overall a perfection of balance seldom
achieved in a dry Middle Mosel riesling. "This is the result of pre-selection,"
says Haag. "When we began the harvest October 10, we went through
and took 15% or 20% of all the bunches, from the lowest-quality vineyard
to the highest, and that, basically, is the estate riesling. I don't see
how "mere" dry Q.b.A. can improve on this. 2 stars.
2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Trocken
($32) Sweet clover and honeysuckle aromas. Elegant and delicate in the
mouth, with gentle acids and a subtle play of slate. This is softer than
the basic riesling Trocken and lacks some of that wine verve. But there
is compensatory nut oil and marrowy richness. 1 star.
2001 Fritz Haag Riesling
($18) Apple and rhubarb fruit give this an invigorating tartness. Chablis-like
in its brothy expression of minerality and shimmering acids, this also
displays nutty depth and finishing richness that transcend the Gutsriesling
genre. At one time, the basic riesling here issued largely from Graach
vineyards, but Haag additional recently acquired acre in the Brauneberger
Juffer means that this is the principal fruit source today. 1 star.
2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett
($21) The wine exudes apple blossom aromas. In the mouth, too, the theme
is floral, with an elegant, deft balance of sweetness and acidity and
a buoyant expression of fruit and slate. The finish is gloriously juicy
and refreshing - the acids insistently supportive without really being
bracing - yet at the same time almost as vividly slatey as a Mosel riesling
can get. 2 stars.
2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett
($24) Golden Delicious apple and tropical fruit aromas. Like its counterpart
from the Juffer, this is explosively floral in the mouth, but here we
have a heavier floral sweetness of honeysuckle and lily rather than apple
blossom and clover. Despite enormous sweetness, the overall impression
is deft and elegant, with enough acidity and slate working their wiles
behind the scene. Here, indeed, slate is a sounding board for a ripe panoply
of fruits rather than adopting a starring role as it does in the Juffer
Kabinett. 1 star.
2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese AP#7
($32) Yeast, baked apple and cinnamon aromas. Rich yet delicate, this
shows less overt sweetness than the Juffer-Sonnenuhr Kabinett. It is unusual
for a Mosel riesling with dominant baked fruit and brown spice flavors
to retain such a sense of clarity and delicacy, and as fine and subtle
an edge of citricity as this one does. The luscious finish adds a lovely
note of almond paste and a mysterious muskiness to the apple and spice.
Perfectly proportional and poised. 2 stars.
2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese AP#14
Tropical fruits dominate the aromas here. Fat and dripping with glycerine,
the palate is less juicy than that of the non-auction Spätlese A.P. #7,
but manages the amazing trick of seeming light and delicate despite huge
ripeness and residual sugar. 1 star.
2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese AP#6
($45) Cinnamon and allspice accents to the Bartlett pear and apple aromas
lead to a deliciously citric and delicately pungent palate. From a slightly
less hard, more water-retentive parcel, this Auslese is in a direct line
from the Spätlese A.P. #7, equally juicy and engaging, but richer and
more forcefully citric. 2 stars.
2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese AP#10
($45) Pure ripe pear, honey, a cool green melon fruit, and a subtle saturation
of slate and brown spices are present from tip to toe. This exhibits extraordinary
poise, polish, and length. No spikes of citricity, no shards of stone.
The harmonious acids are all in the background. 2 stars.
2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Cap
AP#12
Black tea, brown spices, sassafras and baked apple set the aromatic theme
here. Creamy on entry, this quickly shows its fine teeth of citricity,
setting up a fascinating counterpoint. For all of its baked-in richness,
there is still a lovely sense of delicacy, enhanced by a subtle spritz
of CO2. The finish is billowing and elegant. "I think this is my
favorite Auslese today," says Haag, "because it is so very Mosel."
2 stars.
2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Cap
AP#13
Peach jam and brown spices in the nose signal what the palate confirms
a certain pungency of spice and ultraripe fruit born of botrytis. Holding
all that ripeness at arm length is a sizzling citricity more active than
in any other wine here so far today. Layers of peach and apricot jam alternate
with fresh fruit in a tart lemony matrix. This is truly seething with
dynamic, contrasting flavors and textures. Potential 2 stars.
2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese
($354) Intense aroma of apricot suggests a theme of many of the best 2001s
there is a jammy element and a fresh fruit component in harmonious tandem
here. For all of its enormous ripeness, this is buoyant, elegant and juicy
in the mouth, amazing considering that the fruit was 90% botrytis-affected,
and that a high skin-to-juice ratio prevailed even prior to the onset
of noble rot. With its fine, even character, this is in a direct line
from the Auslese A.P. #10. A terrific finish of apricot, honey, subtle
pungent smokiness and brown spice caps this remarkable wine. Here is another
2001 where enormous ripeness and extract do not preclude a wine of delicacy,
refinement and poise. 2 stars.
2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese
"There simply wasn't much botrytis this year," explains Haag,
"so for all of our effort we were left with pitiably little BA and
TBA, having collected at most three or four liters of wine a day."
Quince, apricot and honey dominate in the bouquet and on the palate. Thick
and creamy but with elegance and lift, if not quite the vividly juicy
presence and engagingly spicy personality of the Beerenauslese. Wonderfully
long and certainly hiding more than it shows at present. 2 stars.
Reinhold Haart (Mosel valley)
Only time will tell whether Theo Haart 2001s will scale the heights achieved
in time by his 1994s, or possibly even by one or two other of his last
dozen vintages. But then, it easy to become jaded at an establishment
this impeccably run. Haart says the 2001 crop was large and had to be
rather drastically reduced through green harvest, "but in the end
you could harvest Auslese without selection, provided you were not insisting
on botrytized berries." The results generally speak for themselves,
with several wines that should clearly be on any Mosel lover shopping
list this year. It could be that I have underestimated a couple of embryonic,
high-test Auslesen that were dominated by youthful sweetness. As Haart
himself opines, "these are concentrated and compact without at present
showing their complexity. Let taste them in seven or ten years."
2001 Reinhold Haart Riesling
($15) Fresh apple and grapefruit aromas are pleasantly tinged with apple
pit and grapefruit rind. In the mouth, the wine is lusciously citric,
effusively floral and insistently mineral. Plenty of extract and fruit
stuffing are on display here. This stopped fermenting with 10.5 grams
per liter residual sugar, which happens to balance perfectly but threatens
to transgress the legal bounds of Trocken, that word so foolishly and
fatuously demanded by German consumers. 1 star.
2001 Reinhold Haart Riesling Piesporter Goldtropfchen
($17) Banana, pink grapefruit, blackcurrant and sage in the nose put one
distinctly in mind of scheurebe. That said, the palate dispels any such
notion, as it firmly rooted in the slate of the Mosel. The texture is
oily and rich but the wine is leavened by mineral salts and citrus. Deep
nut oil, invigoratingly bitter blackcurrant and slate flavors carry in
the finish. This was not chaptalized and is legally Trocken, although
Haart no longer writes that on the label. 1 star.
2001 Reinhold Haart Riesling Kabinett Piesporter Goldtropfchen
($20) Fresh apple, blackcurrant and vanilla on the nose. Creamy on the
palate, with apple vanilla of a Wehlener Sonnenuhr sort along with the
tropical fruit, blackcurrant and nut oils associated with great Goldtropfchen.
There is a lovely sense of tiny-berry concentration and mineral extract
here, yet the wine is delicate, refreshing, and despite its ripeness every
inch a Kabinett. Potential 2 stars.
2001 Reinhold Haart Riesling Spätlese Piesporter Goldtropfchen
($30) Yeast, nuts, brown spices, and dried fruits in the nose suggest
a nut bread. Like the corresponding Kabinett, this is creamy in texture
yet delicate, with concentrated tiny-berry ripeness and suffused with
slate. In fact, given that this was harvested significantly later, the
wines are surprisingly close in personality, as they were in Oechsle.
Pineapple, faintly bitter cassis, honey and nut oils take over in an extraordinarily
long, lush, yet delicate finish, joined by subtle suggestions of camphor
and tea. 2 stars.
2001 Reinhold Haart Riesling Auslese Piesporter Goldtropchen
($40) Pear, pink grapefruit, banana and purple plum aromas. In the mouth,
luscious pink grapefruit and orange citricity are accented by brown spices,
Chartreuse-like flower-herb distillate and tea. Honeyed and quite sweet
in the finish but not without persistent, delicate florality and subtle
suggestions of wet slate, stone and mineral salts. It early days for this
and, given the Haart track record and some basic chemistry, one is inclined
to give it the benefit of the doubt. (A rich, very sweet Auslese from
the Domherr and an esterous, nippy, outrageously ripe Auslese from the
replanted Wintricher Ohligsberg fell short of the balance and minerality
exhibited this year in Goldtropfchen.) Potential 2 stars.
2001 Reinhold Haart Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule Piesporter Goldtropfchen
Representing wide-ranging pickings to collect botrytized fruit, this Auslese
is high-toned, ominously spiritous and nippy in the nose, almost suggesting
Eiswein. The acidity, too, proves to be Eiswein-like, lending a feeling
of buoyancy and lift to the palate despite the wine enormous ripeness
and residual sugar. White raisin, dried apples and candied citrus dominate
the palate proceedings, but in the finish a rich caramelized apple character
emerges. 1 star. Also tasted 2001 Piesporter Domherr Riesling Auslese
($36), 2001 Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Auslese ($42).
Karthäuserhof (Ruwer valley)
All of the grapes achieved Spätlese must weight here this year, even by
the estate stringent standards. "But something I have never seen
before," reports Christoph Tyrell, "was sugars going up while
the acids simply did not go down. We just had to wait. It was quite peculiar,
really. Eventually, though, they began to drop and we began harvesting
on October 21." And there was time to wait. Indeed, Tyrell says he
wishes he could every year have the opportunity for strategizing that
he enjoyed in 2001. Since the harvest was late, the wines fermented at
very cold temperatures, which, Tyrell cautions, brought stubborn retention
of CO2and fermentative flavors that made a few of his 2001s difficult
to assess in August.
Also recommended:
2001 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Auslese Trocken ($30),
2001 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Kabinett ($18),
2001 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Auslese ($30),
2001 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Auslese Fuder #44 ($49).
2001 Karthauserhof Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Trocken
($14) Coffee, caraway and redcurrant aromas. Rich and satisfying, with
a glossy texture, brothy mineral-bath character, and lots of earthy low-toned
flavors to ameliorate the brightness of the acids.
2001 Karthauserhof Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Auslese Trocken
S
($36) This is a dry super-Auslese, a genre previously (and memorably)
essayed by Tyrell in 1997. Cooked redcurrant, nut oils and sweet herbal
essences constitute the concentrated fruit amalgam here. Voluminous this
certainly is, but it still juicy, site-typically bright and slate-oriented,
and free of any alcoholic afterburn despite carrying more than 12% alcohol.
1 star.
2001 Tyrell Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken
($18) Lime, kiwi and redcurrant aromas. Juicy, bright red fruits in the
mouth, accented with bracingly salty mineral notes. For all its brightness
there is considerable fat here for a Kabinett, yet the overall impression
is of delicate yet concentrated riesling. Smoky red fruits, toasted nuts
and firm slate finish the picture. 1 star.
2001 Karthauserhof Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Spätlese
($22) Caraway, green tea and mint aromas. Sweet herbals dominate on the
palate as well, but with distinctive notes of melon and raw red fruit
emerging. Juicy and satisfying in the finish, with a clear expression
of minerality. A classic expression of this site. 1 star.
2001 Karthauserhof Riesling Auslese Fuder#38 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg
($42) Peach, ginger spice and high-toned maraschino aromas. Cherries and
peaches continue to figure on the palate, which features an imposingly
liqueur-like intensity, volatility and texture. For all of its upfront
intensity, this leads to an elegant, polished, refined and remarkably
long finish layering peach, candied citrus, red fruit, nut oils, honey,
slate and spice. Incidentally, the cask number 38 and the other cask numbers
noted below appear on the label. 2 stars.
2001 Karthauserhof Riesling Eiswein Fuder#41 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg
Yeast and stale bread, eau de vie-like aromas with notes of toasted nuts
and yellow raisins. For all of the ominous aromatic drum roll, this then
comes onto the palate with surprising buoyancy and elegance, offering
a fascinating interplay of citrus, herbs, pit fruits and yellow raisin.
There is a terrific thrust to the finish here without any sharpness of
acids and with continued low-toned notes of yeasts, toasted nuts and spirit.
A liqueur of Ruwer riesling. 2 stars.
2001 Karthauserhof Riesling Eiswein Fuder#39 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg
This is effectively the heart of the pressing of two days' Eiswein harvest.
Peach and pineapple fruit with accents of black tea and a large dollop
of honey. This is purer, more refined and lacks the spiritous but interestingly
volatile notes of the Eiswein #41. Quite thick in texture and sedate in
finish. Potential 2 stars.
von Hövel (Saar valley)
"They are definitely better than '90," says Eberhard von Kunow
of his latest collection. "Of course, one must consider that for
us at least the yields were very low, lower even than in 1997."
Also recommended:
2001 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett,
2001 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Auslese A.P. #12.
2001 von Hovel Riesling Spätlese Oberemmeler Hutte
This is very backward, exhibiting a lot of fermentative flavors, a milky
palate impression and lots of CO2. Beyond that, though, one can glimpse
the makings of a most impressive wine. Lemon and white peach fruit are
underlaid by low tones of roasted coffee and toasted sunflower seed. Anise
and cherry-almond notes emerge in the finish along with a distinct sense
of slate. (By comparison, von Kunow Scharzhofberger Spätlese was a bit
disjointed and sharp.) 1 star.
2001 von Hovel Riesling Auslese Oberemmeler Hutte AP#11
($31) Grilled peach and pineapple with a toasted nut overlay. Luscious,
juicy, fat and glycerine-rich in the mouth, with gaudy grilled fruit character
and flamboyantly decadent botrytis spice. Lingers with lovely cream of
hazelnut, grilled peach, prickly spiciness and a genuine taste of slate
as well. 2 stars.
Zilliken - Forstmeister Geltz (Saar valley)
The Zilliken 2001 collection this year is not quite as consistent or as
striking at the lower-priced end as these rieslings can be, but the most
successful wines will likely take their place alongside the estate best.
Also recommended: 2001 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett.
2001 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling
($12) Spiced applesauce studded with sweet cherry. Satiny in texture,
with a brothy-rich mineral expression as if the wine were suffused with
slate. Lovely juicy fresh cherry accented with brown spices in the finish.
1 star.
2001 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese A.P. #3
($17) Peach, tangerine and pink grapefruit drizzled with honey seem to
point to a touch of botrytis, which is subsequently confirmed by the sheer
richness and spiciness on the palate. Here is some of the satiny texture
that helped make the basic Zilliken riesling so winsome. There is a considerable
load of sweetness, but it fits this wine fruit personality. 1 star.
2001 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese A.P. #3
Grilled peach and pineapple, honey and brown spices on the nose. The inner-mouth
esters and a slight prickliness place this firmly in the botrytis camp.
Fat and rich, but driven by vibrant citricity and saturated with salty
minerality. Deep musky notes gradually emerge. Very glossy, almost oily
in the mouth, but despite that and despite so much richness of botrytized
fruit, the overall impression is buoyant and uncannily light especially
as the wine soars into a long cadenza of a finish. 2 stars.
2001 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese [Long Gold Capsule] A.P.
#1
While I have listed this wine registration number, in fact it's the only
Zilliken Auslese of 2001. This tastes like a Beerenauslese/Eiswein hybrid,
and in fact much of the fruit picked for this was fully botrytized and
all of it hung through a November frost. The nose is ominously smoky and
redolent of pineapple, maraschino, and soursop. There is a syrupy sense
of cooked fruit richness on the palate, but high acidity comes back to
enliven the fruit and balance the sweetness in the finish. Has fat and
concentration to burn. Potential 2 stars.
Franz Künstler (Rheingau region)
After a near-disaster in 2000, Gunter Kunstler could give thanks for 2001,
even if it was a far from easy vintage given Hochheim early ripeness and
so much September rain. Partly on account of pent-up demand in the German
market, the estate bottled mostly dry wine this year, and I found these
significantly more successful than this year off-dry bottlings. Kunstler
most striking 2001 material may in fact reside in the many barrels and
batches of pinot noir. He elected to chaptalize even his ripest pinots
and to conduct numerous micro-vinifications. These look on track to become,
after blending, some of the strongest competition to top-class red Burgundy
from anywhere in the world.
Also recommended: 2001 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Trocken ($18).
2001 Franz Kunstler Hochheimer Herrenberg Riesling Trocken
($16) Fresh apple tinged with cherry pit and peach kernel bitter notes.
Satisfyingly juicy and chalky on the palate.
2001 Franz Kunstler Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Spätlese Trocken
($45) Fresh cherry and lime fruit on the nose and in the mouth. Brighter
and clearer in fruit and mineral expression than the chaptalized Domdechaney.
Kunstler himself thinks that precisely because the Domdechaney was chaptalized
and this is natural. The seven grams of sweetness here seem to just support
the fruit and add to the mouthcoating finishing impression. 1 star.
2001 Franz Kunstler Hochheimer Holle Riesling Kabinett
Trocken
At 11.5% alcohol, this has essentially the same ripeness as the Kirchenstuck
dry Spätlese, and in fact I find both the fruit and mineral elements even
more emphatic here. Strikingly clear and pure, whereas a recently bottled
Holle Spätlese Trocken seemed to sacrifice purity and clarity for its
additional ripeness. Potential 2 stars.
2001 Franz Kunstler Hochheimer Stielweg Riesling Spätlese Trocken
Rich cherry fruit is here underlaid by firm chalky terroir. At 11.5% alcohol,
this has essentially the same ripeness as the Kirchenstück dry Spätlese,
and in fact I find both the fruit and mineral elements even more emphatic
here. Strikingly clear and pure, whereas a recently bottled Hölle
Spätlese Trocken seemed to sacrifice purity and clarity for its additional
ripeness. Potential 2 stars. 2001 Hochheimer Stielweg Riesling Spätlese
Trocken ($35; from cask): Gorgeous aroma of lime, yellow plum, grapefruit
and cherry. Mirabelle distillate in the mouth, with subtle fruit skin
tartness and fruit pit bitterness. Juicy and chalky. 1 star.
2001 Franz Kunstler Hochheimer Holle Riesling Auslese Trocken
($65) Voluminous, rich and dense. Bright with citrus fruits, clear in
its pithy chalky mineral expression, but satisfyingly creamy in texture
and hiding its 13% alcohol. Juicy, chalky and smoky in the finish. (A
Kirchenstuck Auslese Trocken was thicker yet, but less clear and juicy
and betraying its high alcohol.) 1 star.
2001 Franz Kunstler Hochheimer Reichestal Riesling Eiswein (half bottle)
($147 for 375 ml.) This and its less concentrated and successful sibling
from Holle were both harvested the 18th of December. Orange creamsicle,
tangerine, pear, vanilla and brown spice flavors. Creamy, polished, almost
soft in feel and very delicately citric in the finish, with salty minerality.
Hardly typical Eiswein but very elegant and fine. 1 star.
Robert Weil (Rheingau region)
It no longer comes as a surprise that Wilhelm Weil has managed a collection
ranging from Q.b.A. to TBA. But Weil considers 2001 exceptional and does
not shy from comparison with 1971 "with elegance on account of fine
ripe acids and density thanks to huge extract and noble botrytis. That
a combination one doesn't often get." The flowering was a bit sporadic,
leading to many shot berries and loose bunches which would eventually
enhance ventilation of the fruit during the critical rainy period of September
and enhance concentration in the resultant wines. Noble rot really only
arrived after the first week of November.
Also recommended:
2001 Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken ($30),
2001 Riesling ($16),
2001 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Spätlese ($49),
2001 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Auslese ($49 for 375 ml.).
2001 Robert Weil Riesling Trocken
($16) The aromas here suggest white Burgundy in their nutty, toasty and
overtly chalky way. Brothy, rich and low-toned in flavors, quite creamy
in texture, and finishing with notes of toasted nuts and pumpkin seeds,
this is extremely dense for basic riesling. A slight warmth in the finish
should not be blamed on chaptalization (this was boosted less than one
degree) and can in fact be easily overlooked.
2001 Robert Weil Riesling Kabinett Trocken
($22) Subtle peach and pear fruit with floral inflections. Very bright
and elegant, with a dynamic interplay of fruit and chalky minerality.
With nine grams of acidity and a lean mineral streak, this is relatively
austere wine, but there is a lovely satiny texture and vivid fruit to
keep it from being too austere. There is a strong finish of almond, pear
and chalk. 1 star.
2001 Robert Weil Riesling Kabinett Trocken Kiedricher Grafenberg
($28) An attractive if understated nose of flowers and chalk is followed
by nut oils and mineral salts on the palate. The texture is silky and
fine. Finishes on hazelnut puree, chalk dust and the scent of buddleia.
1 star.
2001 Robert Weil Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Erstes Gewachs
($49) While there is still a Grafenberg Kabinett Trocken in the Weil line-up,
Spätlese Trocken has been eliminated now that there is the legally recognized
category of Erstes Gewachs. The nose here is an interesting amalgam of
site-typical florals with parsley, resin and ocean breeze. Salty, meaty,
brothy and rich in the mouth, this quite full-bodied dry riesling finishes
with low-toned chalk, toasted nuts and peach pit bitterness. The palate
impression certainly bears out the analysis, which reveals 30 grams of
dry extract to go along with its high alcohol and acid. "The acids
give some play to this otherwise heavy, voluminous wine," comments
Weil, who thinks it will be a 20-year wine. 1 star.
2001 Robert Weil Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken
($22) At 16 grams residual sugar, this has in some sense twice the sweetness
of the corresponding Kabinett Trocken, but your palate would never tell
you. What the sweetness does is reinforce the florality and pear-peach
fruit and give one a wine of relative delicacy. The finish here is sedate
and subtly mineral, with great clarity of flavor. 1 star.
2001 Robert Weil Riesling Kabinett
($22) Musk, blue plum, red raspberry and sage aromas lead to a full-fruited,
silken-textured palate and a strong, salt-tinged finish. The bright red
and blue fruits here are quite striking, although I can't say that, tasting
blind, I would have correctly placed this wine grown in the Wasseros as
a Kiedricher. The level of dry extract here approaches what one might
expect from a Beerenauslese, and shows itself both in the way 70 grams
of sugar are entirely buffered, and in the way the flavors positively
encamp in the finish. 2 stars.
2001 Robert Weil Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule Kiedricher
Grafenberg
Subtle and alluring aromatic notes of bread, muskmelon, peach and honey.
Incredibly fat and thick and yet not heavy or syrupy. White peach, melon,
honey and herbal tea flavors. There is a subtle suggestion of caramelization,
but also plenty of fresh fruit juiciness left in this enormously ripe
wine, and a bracing, fascinating salty-mineral strand in the honeyed finish.
But I pick up a faintly prickly botrytis pungency as well. Weil likens
this to an elegantly, finely botrytized cousin of his superb '96 gold
capsule Auslese. Potential 2 stars.
2001 Robert Weil Riesling Beerenauslese Kiedricher Grafenberg
($201 for 375 ml.) Caramelized peach and overripe muskmelon aromas with
subtly salty hints. The far-gone ripeness on the nose in no way prepares
one for a palate that is elegant rather than powerful and emphasizes salt
and iodine minerality. Hazelnut puree and subtle chocolate notes emerge
in the finish, making for a strikingly wide range of flavors, from deep,
torrefactive low tones through subtly caramelized pit fruits to mineral
salts. Texturally, this is smoother and more polished as well as possessing
a more elegant sense of buoyancy than the gold capsule Auslese. 2 stars.
2001 Robert Weil Riesling Eiswein Kiedricher Grafenberg
($270 for 375 ml.) Harvested on the 14th of December, this Eiswein exudes
apricot preserves, mandarin orange, grilled pineapple and honey. Oily,
glossy and rather sugar-coated in its palate impression, this wells up
with citrus fruits, smoky black tea and pungently spicy notes; exotically
rich, but with a dynamic interplay of flavors. Despite huge volume and
ripeness, and a relatively gentle finish for an Eiswein, this is subtly
complex, airily elegant, and satisfyingly juicy in the finish. 2 stars.
2001 Robert Weil Riesling Beerenauslese Gold Capsule Kiedricher Grafenberg
(half bottle)
($411 for 375 ml.) Apricot jam and pungent, high-toned distilled fruit
and citrus rind aromas. The palate displays fabulous concentration of
honey and pit fruit preserves. Rich, viscous and intense, yet the wine
somehow manages to be light on its feet. The finish is strikingly high-toned
and of distilled strength. Here I miss the subtle caramelization, creamy
texture and salty sense of minerality possessed by the "normal"
Beerenauslese, but then this gold capsule rendition is certainly designed
for the long haul - 50 years in Weil estimation. Potential 2 stars.
2001 Robert Weil Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Kiedricher Grafenberg
Aromas of caramelized peach and gaudy tropical fruits. Amazingly viscous
in the mouth, redolent of peach and apricot preserves with a slightly
rhubarb-like sharpness. Overall, though, this is quite sedate but largely
inscrutable. Certainly the enormous residual sugar is buffered to a remarkable
degree. This is utterly embryonic, but I am inclined to give it the benefit
of the doubt. Potential 2 stars.
Pfeffingen (Pfalz region)
Jan Eymael would have been happy to see a bit more botrytis this year,
particularly to supply the estate trademark Scheurebe Pradikatsweine.
That being said, the most notable successes here this year did not come
from the Trocken wines.
Also recommended:
2001 Riesling Trocken ($12),
2001 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Spätlese Trocken ($25),
2001 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken "Pfeffo"
($16).
2001 Pfeffingen Riesling Spätlese Ungsteiner Herrenberg
($21) Brown spice, citrus and pit fruits in the nose. Creamy in the mouth,
with pineapple, orange, brown spices and lovely inner-mouth florality.
Quite sweet in the finish, but persistently creamy, lusciously fruity,
and possessed of a subtle, invigorating salty note. For reasons that can
only be intelligible to Germans who have followed the development of Grosses
Gewachs legislation with conviction, this and other sweet wines here will
in Germany no longer be labeled with the name of the site. The good sense
of the importer and the American public have prevailed for the U.S. market.
1 star.
2001 Pfeffingen Scheurebe Spätlese
($21) In the nose, blackcurrant candy and a note of rose petal that would
seem to have been borrowed from the gewurztraminer. Quite sweet and candied
on the palate, with overtones of resin, sage flower and citrus. This is
certainly the proverbial fruit bomb, yet it finishes with considerable
elegance and poise, fresh pineapple and blackcurrant breaking out from
under the hard candy aspect of the wine. 1 star.
2001 Pfeffingen Gewurztraminer Spätlese
($21) The lovely nose here manifests the lichee, sweet pea, bacon fat
and rose petal notes classic to this variety. Creamy and so scented it
is like an inhalation on the palate, this adds caraway, light black pepper
and subtle florals as it billows its way into an impressively long finish.
A polished, elegant and perfectly balanced rendition of off-dry gewurztraminer.
When one considers that there are 60 grams of residual sugar here and
fewer than 5 of acid, the wine seems something of a miracle. 1 star.
2001 Pfeffingen Scheurebe Auslese Ungsteiner Herrenberg
($23 for 375 ml.) Fresh blackcurrant, mint and a hint of caramel in the
nose. Liqueur-like in its glossy, esterous, thick, intensely ripe palate
impression, yet at the same time amazingly light and delicate to the touch.
Effortlessly balances 110 grams of residual sugar. Deliciously juicy,
fresh and lively in the finish even as it positively exudes honeyed richness
of botrytis, caramelized pit fruits, and Chartreuse-like herbals. 2 stars.
von Buhl (Pfalz region)
I hazard the claim that this estate turned in one of the best performances
of the vintage outside the Mosel. I say this on the strength of those
von Buhl 2001s that winemaker and vineyard manager Frank John shared with
me, and in light of the fact that I tasted none of the following three
"oversubscribed, sold-out" Grosse Gewachse; Ungeheuer Auslese
gold capsule; Rieslaner Auslese; Scheurebe Auslese; Riesling and Scheurebe
TBAs; and two Eisweins. With high acidity and robust fruit at picking,
John extended the use of skin contact; nature certainly played along with
his acid-reduction strategy by serving up the coldest winter in 20 years.
High acidity, cold ambient temperatures and the sheer abundance of vinous
material also prompted John to keep the young wines on their lees until
well into spring. For the first time this year at von Buhl, all of the
fermentations were with ambient yeasts, which work more effectively, John
opines, when there is skin contact to thoroughly transfer the yeasts to
the juice.
Also recommended: 2001 Riesling Halbtrocken ($14), 2001 Riesling Kabinett
Armand ($16), 2001 Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Scheurebe BA.
2001 Reichsrat von Buhl Riesling Kabinett Trocken
($16) Mint, sweet corn and sage aromatics. Sharp and lemony as it comes
onto the palate, but then stuffing and extract buffer the acids. A slight
suggestion of sweet corn and delicate herbal, lime and mineral shadings
linger long, displaying real purity and clarity and almost weightless,
true Kabinett delicacy. This consists largely of early picking at relatively
high acidity from the various top sites, a full month before the fruit
for Erstes Gewachs was brought in. The luscious, juicy finishing fruit
belies the wine low residual sugar. Quality this good in a "nameless"
base wine is almost ridiculous and provides yet more evidence that you
can't judge a German riesling by its label. 2 stars.
2001 Reichsrat von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese Trocken
($30) Apple and herb aromas. Mealy, earthy and peachy in an Ungeheuer-typical
way, but with a slightly detached note of acidity alongside that. Quite
sleek in texture but with obvious acid structure. The finish displays
deep nuttiness and pleasantly tart apple skin character but is very juicy,
with greater clarity and finesse than I usually ascribe to this site.
1 star.
2001 Reichsrat von Buhl Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Riesling Grosses
Gewachs
($35) Frank John lifted one of the four bottles in his private cellar
so that I could taste this. Sweet green herbs, white peach and Szechuan
pepper aromas. Extraordinarily dense and concentrated on the palate, with
lush peachy fruit; resinous, smoky, peaty, musky, spicy, peppery acents;
and forceful grip in the finish. Refreshing for all its density and profundity
and blessedly free of any trace of alocholic heat or phenolic roughness.
2 stars.
2001 Reichsrat von Buhl Deidesheimer Leinhohle Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken
($16) Sweet corn, grapefruit and hints of mint and sage in the nose. On
the palate there is luscious sweet corn fruit, vibrant citrus, and a terrific
sense of mineral extract. The sweetness is just sufficient to support
the fruit and accentuate a honeyed note that builds in the mouth. Genuine
Kabinett lightness of touch and delicacy of flavor, yet also gentle creaminess
and a strain-it-through-your-teeth sense of fruit density and mineral
extract. Subtle citrus, honey, cardamom and sweet corn. It is astonishing
that this wine carries only 11 grams of residual sugar, a testimony to
the lusciousness of the fruit. 2 stars.
2001 Reichsrat von Buhl Deidesheimer Maushohle Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken
($28) Corn mash and brown spices in the nose. Dense and rather chewy,
especially when compared with the sleekness and polish of a number of
the von Buhl 2001s. High-toned cherry-almond character on the palate.
Pungent spices (not from any botrytis) and some warmth in the finish,
but also enormous fruit concentration and length. 1 star.
2001 Reichsrat von Buhl Riesling Spätlese Forster Jesuitengarten
($28) Baked apple allied to a Chartreuse-like distilled essence of herbs
and flowers. Pear, caramelized apple and quince on the palate, with a
creamy, enveloping character, but also a firm, wet-stone mineral substrate.
Positively dripping with glycerine. Ripe and lightly caramelized orchard
fruits and sage in the finish. Overtly sweet, very slightly warm, but
impressively rich, spicy and complex. The yield here was low, and the
picking crew got to it only in early December, having to cull out much
botrytized fruit (and on the last day of harvest there was hard frost).
Potential 2 stars.
2001 Reichsrat von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Auslese
($34) This is one of two Ungeheuer Auslesen, from essentially healthy
fruit. Pears, honey and lime in the nose. Glyceral, honeyed, and at least
slightly suggestive of botrytis in the mouth despite the claims made for
its sanitary state. Banana and ripe apple suggestions in the mouth. Imposingly
opulent and rich even if it lacks the clarity of the best wines here today.
1 star.
Gunderloch (Rheinhessen region)
Fritz and Agnes Hasselbach are among the numerous German vintners who
have recently elected to dispense with designations of Pradikat for dry
wines. Even their top dry riesling (which for a couple of vintages they
referred to as Grosses Gewachs and which I tasted this year in its 2000
but not its unbottled 2001 incarnation) will simply be bottled as Nackenheimer
Rotenberg Riesling Trocken. Fritz Hasselbach places great emphasis on
controlling nitrogen and preserving healthy foliage; he proudly displayed
photographic evidence of his verdant vines in November. More than a third
of the harvest here came in above minimum Auslese must weights.
Also recommended: 2001 Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Spätlese.
1996 Gunderloch Gunderloch Riesling Trocken
($15) Peach and smoky red soil notes in the nose. Full and brothy in the
mouth, with citrus rind, resins, and a stony sense of minerals. This finishes
with low-toned richness and positive pungency of a mineral, high-extract
- rather than a botrytis or rough - sort. 1 star.
2001 Gunderloch Riesling Trocken Niersteiner Pettental
($15) In fact this is high-grade Spätlese. High-toned lemon rind, sage,
peach and tangerine aromas. Very bright, salty and juicy in the mouth,
and positively rapier-like in its finish. Despite 12% alcohol and manifestly
huge extract, the wine still evinces a certain sense of lightness. Very
striking stuff that really clings and performs well above its price class.
Potential 2 stars.
2001 Gunderloch Jean Baptiste Riesling Kabinett
($16) Almond paste and tangerine aromas. Unusually delicate and buoyant
in the mouth by the usual standards of this bottling, its sweetness (bordering
on Halbtrocken) is perfectly judged to support the fruit and set off the
lemon and tangerine citricity. Citrus with rind and smoky mineral inflections
in the finish. 1 star.
2001 Gunderloch Riesling Auslese Nackenheimer Rothenberg
Tangerine and sassafras aromas put one in mind of Erden. On the palate,
honey and rich marzipan sweetness are leavened by tangerine citricity
and the whole suffused with pungently smoky minerality. A hundred grams
of residual sugar are brought to heel by 10.5 acidity and heaps of extract.
The braid of fresh fruit, botrytized, faintly caramelized fruit and minerals
here is uncanny. Juicy and refreshing in the finish even as it is profoundly
botrytized and rooted in its classic red soil terroir. Smoke and almonds
linger longest of all. 2 stars.
2001 Gunderloch Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule Nackenheimer Rothenberg
($95) The Gunderloch crew picked this wine, their BA and their TBA simultaneously
into separate baskets, although this was the work of weeks, not days.
The must weight of this Auslese was already into the legal range of TBA!
The nose delivers a huge rush of grilled pineapple, woodsmoke, apricot
jam, peppermint, butterscotch and pure sweet botrytisin. Here is a case
of advanced botrytis delivering a mesmerizingly multifaceted font of flavors,
with honey, pineapple, apricot, tangerine, almond paste and sweet florality
among the more prominent currents. Glossy and fat in texture, and with
a slight distilled-fruit volatility clinging throughout and adding another
layer of complexity, this just flows on and on. 2 stars.
2001 Gunderloch Riesling Beerenauslese Nackenheimer Rothenberg (half bottle)
($130 for 375 ml.) Ominously smoky and spiritously volatile aromatics
also encompass dried peach and tangerine zest. In the mouth, this is positively
dripping with glycerine, a brown sugar sweetness almost overwhelming the
peach and citrus. Rich and sweet in the finish, with low-toned praline,
peach and molasses notes. This is impressively long if not terribly refreshing
or manifestly site-specific. 1 star.
2001 Gunderloch Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Nackenheimer Rothenberg
(half bottle)
($260 for 375 ml.) Peach preserve, candied watermelon rind, heavy florals
and citrus aromas without any obvious volatile esters. Enormously sweet
and viscous, this somehow also comes off light on its feet, with an uncanny
balance that leaves it tasting only subtly sweet. Smoke and citrus elements
in the long finish give this a decided sense of place. Unfortunately,
there are only 120 liters of this elixir which, while utterly embryonic,
clearly merits 2 stars.
Rudi Wiest Selections
by Cellars International, Inc.
phone 760.566.0499 - info@germanwine.net - fax 760.566.0533
Copyright © 1993 - 2005
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